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Archaeological 

&A Diary of a Trip to the Ancient 
llicp Art-Centres of Greece, Asia 

Minor, the /Egean Islands and 
• .1 ^ Sicily. 

in the 
Levant 



By Gustav H. Schwab 



You have nothing to do, but transcribe your little red 
books, if they are not rubbed out ; for I conclude you 
have not Irufted everything to memory, which is ten 
times worse than a lead pencil. Half a word fixed on 
or near the spot is worth a cartload of recollection. 

— Gray 'i letters. 



Printed for Private Distribution 



Copyright, 1904, by Gustav H. Schwab 



^ 



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LIBRARY of CONGRESS 

APR ic iyu5 

COPY e. 



Introduction 




N THE Fall of this year a number of those interested in studying the latest 
discoveries made in the ancient art centres of Greece, the islands of the Aigean 
and the Greek Colonies of Asia Minor, joined in undertaking an excursion to 
these classical regions. S. S. "Schleswig," of the North German Lloyd, was 
chartered, and Dr. Wiegand, Director-General of the North German Lloyd, 
who was the originator of the plan, assumed the task of supervising the necessary 
work of preparation for the excursion. With the valuable advice and aid of Dr. Schrader, 
Director of the German Archaeological Institute of Athens, and of Dr. Wiegand, Archaeological 
Attach^ of the German Embassy at Constantinople, who is now conducting the excavations at 
Miletus, in Asia Minor, an interesting programme was laid out. Both Dr. Schrader and 
Dr. Wiegand kindly consented to accompany the cruise and to explain to the participants the 
various places of interest visited (Dr. Schrader conducting the party in Greece, and Dr. Wiegand 
in the yEgean and in Asia Minor), a feature that materially added to the interest and 
instructiveness of the cruise. The programme was the following: 

Leaving Trieste on October 3rd, the steamer was to call at Corfu; Katakolo, whence 
Olympia was to be visited; Itea, the port for Delphi; Corinth, whence the party was to proceed 
to Athens by rail, the steamer meeting them again at Piraeus; the islands of Santorin, Candia 
and Rhodos; Miletus; Smyrna, whence Ephesus was to be visited, and Constantinople. Then, 
returning to Greece, the steamer was to call at Nauplia for the purpose of visiting Mykenae 
and Tiryns, and was then to stop at Malta, calling at ports in Sicily, and finally landing the 
participants at Genoa, where the cruise was to end. 

I accompanied the cruise with my son, Gustav Schwab Jr., and believing that an account of 
the voyage may be of interest, have prepared my diary for private distribution among my 
relatives and friends in this country. 

The illustrations are partly from views taken b}^ my son and partly from photographs acquired 
at the various points visited. 



/t-o^^Ax;^ '^ - tJC^OiAj-giA^^^^ 



New York, November 23, 1904. 



An Archaeological Cruise in the Levant 



It is a melancholy of mine own, 
compounded of niany sim])les, extracted from many objects, and indeed the sundry 
contemplation of my travels, in which my often rumination wraps me in a most humor- 
ous sadness. 

— Shakespeare, "As You Like It." 



Trieste, October 3, 1904. 
EAVING Venice on Sunday evening, October 2, by a so-called express train, 
which made famous progress as far as the Austrian frontier, but, after reaching 
Austrian territory, degenerated into a go-as-you-please arrangement of the 
most exasperating description, we arrived at Trieste at midnight, an hour 
and a half late. In the morning, which opened with a blue sky and brilliant 
sunshine, we looked from our hotel windows out upon the blue Adriatic. In the 
foreground was the harbor of Trieste, showing many evidences of active life and traffic. Scores of 
ocean steamers were anchored in the harbor or moored alongside the quays, which are now being 
extended by the Austrian government, at large expense, to accommodate the growing trade of the 
Empire's greatest seaport. Trieste is situated at the foot of a high range of hills, which surround 





it on the north, northwest and northeast, forming an amphitheatre in which the city is the orchestra 
and the Adriatic Sea the stage. The houses and streets of the city ascend in terraces upon the 
sides of the foot-hills. Not- 
withstanding its apparently 
well-protected position, the 
north wind sweeps down upon 
the city with great force, as 
we discovered later in the 
day after our arrival. This 
wind, known as the bora, 
blows with great violence and 
in occasional gusts that show 
no respect for the wanderer 
and promptly remove his 
head-gear if it is not well 
attached. 

Gus and I boarded the 
"Schleswig" toward noon, 
after having made some final 
purchases and financial 
arrangements, and found 
about twenty of our ship's 

company on board. We are expecting the balance, some seventy-five, this evening by special 
train from Vienna. On their arrival, the steamer will cast off and proceed on her voyage. 




PLAYING SHUFFLEBOARD 



• A wet sheet and a flowing sea, 
A wind that follows fast 
And fills the white and rustling sail 
And bends the gallant mast. 

— Allan Cunningham. 

At Sea, October 4, 1904. 

The bora blowing down from the hills on the north of Trieste was so strong last night, after 

the arrival of the special train from Vienna with the balance of our ship's company, that it 

seemed to the captain too risky to pass out of the harbor in the darkness. We therefore 

remained moored to the quay 
all night and did not sail 
until 11.30 this morning, when 
the steamer cast off. The 
captain made a detour to the 
west after clearing the break- 
water, to give the passengers 
a view of Miramar, the sea- 
side palace of the unfortu- 
nate Emperor Maximilian of 
Mexico. This palace is beau- 
tifully located on the water's 
edge, and is a fine building in 
the Norman style, built of 
light-colored stone, which 
forms a fine contrast against 
the dark-green background 
of trees in the park around 
it. The steamer then turned 
to the south, and, running 




OUR COSY QUARTERS OX THE "SCHLESWIG' 



before the wind, skirted the mountainous coast of Istria, passing many picturesque towns 
and villages on the cliffs and hills high above the sea. Near one of these sea-towns, Pirano, was 
fought the naval battle in which the combined forces of the Genoese, of the Pisans and of the 
Emperor Barbarossa were defeated by the Venetians under the Doge Ziani in the year 1177. 
Another historic point passed on the Dalmatian coast after leaving Istria was Lissa, where 
the Austrian Admiral TegethofTF defeated the Italians in 1860. 



The great Ulysses started from his sleep 
.■\nd sat upright, discoursing to himself; 
"Ah me! upon what regions am I thrown? 
What men are here, — wild, savage and unjust, 
Or hospitable, and who hold the gods 
In reverence? There are voices in the air, 
Womanly voices, as of nymphs that haunt 
The mountain summits, and the river-founts. 
And the moist, grassy meadows." 

— Homer, Odyssey, Book I '/ 
— Bryants Translatiou . 

Corfu, Greece, October 6, 1904. 

At 6 a.m. to-day the steamer entered the narrow passage between the island of Corfu and 
the mainland (Albania). On both sides the coast is very rugged and mountainous. While the hills 
on the island are dotted with plantations of olive trees and vineyards, and with towns and 
villages, the Albanian mountains on the other side of the strait show little or no cultivation, 
and but very few settlements. The city of Corfu opened to the right on the shore of a 
deep bay, the "fortezza vecchia," or "old fort," jutting out on a bold promontory at the 




VIEW OF MIR.V.MAR 








THE STEAM PINNACE AND HER CONVOY 



southeast side of the bay. To the north the mountains of Corfu rise to a considerable 

height, while far to the east, across the blue water, the grey range of Albanian Moun- 
tains forms a picturesque background. 

Corfu was known to the ancient Greeks 

as the Island of the Phaeacians, on which the 

wandering Odysseus was cast by the storm, 

and on which he was hospitably received 

by Nausikaa, and her father, King Alkinoos. 
At 8 a.m. the steamer dropped her anchor 

in the harbor, the steam pinnace and four 

boats were in the water in a jiffy, and the 

passengers embarked in the boats by the 

companion-ladders on each side, twenty-five 

in each boat. The pinnace towed the boats 

in two rows, two boats in a row, to the quay, 

where the passengers disembarked and found a number of carriages waiting for them. 

These carriages took the party through the rather uninviting city out into the open country, 

past vineyards and groves 
of olive trees in which the 
women were working and the 
men seemed to be idly look- 
ing on, if they were not sit- 
ting in the numerous wayside 
taverns we passed. Groups of 
peasants passed us on the 
road, the men generally com- 
fortably seated on donkeys, 
and the women trudging 
along on foot with bundles on 
their heads. Very little work 
seemed to be under way, and 
the population generally made 
rather an unfavorable impres- 
sion, out of harmony with the 
beautiful scenerj' in which the 
island abounds. 
The road ascended in many windings to the Achilleion, the palace built by the Empress 

of Austria, on a high hill above the sea. The gardens of the palace are well worth seeing, 




GARDEN' OF THE ACHILLEION, CORFU 




ISLAND OF PONTIKONISI. CORFU 




chiefly on account of the magnificent views they afford of the surrounding country and of the 
sea. Many of the works of art that formerly adorned the gardens have been removed since the 

Empress' tragic death. The palace 
itself is of no interest, and the paint- 
ings and sculptures it contains are 
mediocre. 

From the Achillcion the carriages 
proceeded to the Kanoniki, a point 
on the coast from which there is a 
fine view of the small rocky island of 
Pontik6nisi, known as the island or 
rock into which the furious Posei- 
don transformed the Phseacian vessel 
that carried Odysseus to Ithaka. The 
island is also known as the subject 
of one of Bcecklin's most powerful 
paintings. 

After lunch in Corfu, the pilgrims 

were conveyed by boat along the 

coast to the island of Pontikonisi and then returned to the steamer, which sailed in the glory 

of a beautiful sunset, the mountains of Albania in the distance touched with pink, and the nearer 

hills of Corfu glowing with a purple hue. 




VALLEY OF THE ALPHEIOS, OLYMPL\ 



Eure Tempel lachten gleich Palhsten, 
Euch verherrlichte das Heldenspiel 
An des Isthmus kronenreichen Festen, 
Und die Wagen donnerten zum Ziel. — 



Schon geschlumgen, seelenvolle Tanze 
Kreisten um den prangenden Altar, 
Eure Schlafe schmiickten Siegcskranze, 
Kronen euer duftend Haar. 

— Schiller, "Die Goiter Gricchenlands." 



Katakolo, Olympia, Greece, October 7, 1904. 

The steamer anchored in this quiet little harbor of the Peloponnesos, outside the small 
breakwater, at 7 a. m., and at 8.15 the passengers were promptly conveyed to the quav by the 
pinnace and her convov of 
four boats. A little train of 
cars was drawn up along the 
quay, in which we embarked 
and rattled slowly along 
through a rather monotonous 
country to Pyrgos, where we 
alighted and walked to 
another station, whence 
another train was to take us 
to Olvmpia. Why one railroad 
does not connect with the 
other no man seemed to know. 
The country, after leaving 
Pyrgos, became more inter- 
esting; extensive vinej^ards 
bordered the railroad on either 
hand, and on both sides hills 
arose, with here and there a 

THE SITE OF THE PAL.tESTRA, 0LYMPL\ 





COLUMNS OF THE TEMPLE OF ZEUS, OLYMPIA 



town or village on their sides, the slopes and fields dotted with trees. At Olympia, Dr. Schrader, 
who had prepared us for the sights we were to see by an excellent illustrated lecture delivered in 
the dining-room of the steamer on the previous evening, conducted us through the excavations 
originally begun by Professor Curtius and continued by his assistants and successors at the 
expense of the German government. 

The site of the Olympian games and of the National Temple of Greece has been entirely 
covered by a mass of sand and gravel to a depth of from fifteen to twenty feet during the last 
fifteen hundred years, through inundations of 
the rivers Kladeos and Alpheios, and through 
soil washed down from the hill of Kronos, 
immediately adjoining the sacred precinct 
on the north. 

The country around Olympia is charming, 
the hills covered with small pine trees and 
other growths, and the excavations lie in the 
beautiful green valley of the Alpheios, the 
course of which river has been diverted by 
several successive layers of sand and other 
material. Our first visit was made to the 
Palsestra, in which the contestants prepared 
themselves and practiced for the games. Little 
is left of this structure except the founda- 
tions, some traces of walls and parts of tile flooring. The Philippeion, a round structure, of 
which the marble steps still exist, leading up to what was formerly a circle of eighteen columns, 
was erected by Philip II of Macedon about 336 B. C, and contained statues of the founder 
and his house. The Heraion, probably the oldest known temple in Greece, the sanctuary 
of Hera, still contains the lower parts of nearly all its columns. In this temple the Hermes 
of Praxiteles was found in a comparatively well-preserved condition, which is attributed 

to the fact that, although the 
statue was thrown down from 
its pedestal in the temple by 
the Christians, it soon became 
covered by the clay of which 
the upper part of the walls 
of this temple were construct- 
ed, and which was washed 
down from the walls of the 
temple after the wooden roof 
had been destroyed. 

The Temple of Zeus, once 
the greatest national sanctu- 
ary of the Greeks, now pre- 
sents a remarkable appear- 
ance, as it was destroyed by 
an earthquake which threw 
down all the columns of the 
south side in such regular 
order that the dies, or pieces composing the columns, and the capitals, originally on top of 
the columns, now lie in uniform rows at right angles from the side of the temple like pieces 
of money in a row, one partly resting on the other. It is desired by Dr. Schrader to re-erect 
one or two of these columns, in order to convey an idea of the third dimension of the 
temple, the vertical, as only the other two dimensions, the length and the width, can now 
be appreciated. Through the generosity of one of the gentlemen of our party, the means have 
been provided to carry out this plan. 




THE TEMPLE OF ZEUS, OLYMPIA 



10 




l:\ 1 KAN'CE TO STADION', OLV.MPIA 



The cella that once contained Phidias' celebrated statue of Zeus of Olympia can still be 

distinguished in its outlines. The statue itself, constructed of ivory and gold, and forty feet in 

height, described as one of the wonders of 
the ancient world, is said to have been 
removed to Constantinople and there to have 
perished. 

The entrance to the stadion, where the 
national games took place, with a cov- 
ered way, the arch of which is partly intact, 
has been excavated; but the stadion itself, 
some six hundred feet in length, is still 
buried, and, as excavations have ceased, will 
probably remain in its present condition for 
some time to come. The Treasuries, small 
temples erected by the various states of 
Greece to preserve their votive offerings, 
contain little of interest. 

The Museum, situated near the ruins, was 

built by a wealthy Athenian, and contains the figures or fragments of the pediment of the 

Temple of Zeus, discovered during the work of 

excavation. The sculptures of the eastern 

pediment represent the preparations for the 

chariot race of Pelops with Enomaos. In the 

middle is the erect figure of Zeus. On one 

side of the god appears Pelops with Hippo- 

daneia, the daughter of Enomaos, and on the 

other side the figure of Enomaos and that 

of his wife. A group of four horses follows 

on either side with charioteers and other 

figures. A fine figure of Nike, also exca- 
vated in Olympia, is contained in the col- 
lection, and in a room in the rear stands 

the celebrated Hermes of Praxiteles, one 

of the finest and best-preserved statues 

of antiquity, holding the infant Dionysos on his left arm. 




MUSEUM, OLYMPIA 




GREEKS BY THE WAYSIDE 



Schone Welt, wo bist du ? — Kehre wieder, 
Holdes Bliithenalter der Natur! 
Ach, nur in dem Feenland der Lieder 
Lebt noch deine fabelhafte Spur. 
Ausgestorben trauert das Gefilde, 
Keine Gottheit zeigt sich meinem Blick, 
Ach, von jenem lebenwarmen Bilde 
Blieb der Schatten nur zuriick. 

— Schillei;"Die Goiter Griechenlands." 

Itea, Delphi, Greece, October 8, 1904. 
After the return of the ship's company to the 
steamer, the latter left the harbor of Katakolo, 
and, turning into the Gulf of Corinth, anchored 
off the small town of Itea early in the morning. On 
landing, we found ourselves in a beautiful bay on 
the north shore of the Gulf of Corinth, the bay sur- 
rounded by high mountains on the northeast and 



11 




THE "SHINING CLIFFS." DELPHI 



west, and to the south, across the Gulf, the greyish-blue mountains of the Peloponnesos. 
A few carriages, as many as pould be procured in that part of the country, were in readiness 
for the ladies and those unable or unwilling to ride. The large majority of the pilgrims took to 
donkeys or mules, led and driven by picturesque-looking Greeks. The saddles on these beasts 
were uncouth contrivances of wood, on which the rider was perched high above the little animal 
beneath him; his feet were 
placed in the bight of a cord 
looped down on either side of 
the saddle, and the only 
means of navigating or guid- 
ing the donkey or mule was 
through the blows and objur- 
gations of the driver, as no 
bridle or anything else of that 
description was provided. 
The cavalcade proceeded 
along a level highway through 
the plain intervening between 
the sea and the foot-hills, 
but soon the cat-like donkeys 
and mules began scrambling 
up the steep and stony paths 
leading in zig-zags and cut- 
offs from the highway up 
the hills towards Delphi. A 
superb panorama was . now 

spread out before us. At our side, deep down, was the valley of the old Pleistos. In front the 
steep and stony foot-hills of the Parnassos. Behind and below us, the level plain, green and grey 
with vineyards and olive trees. In the background, the high, towering grey mountains, bare 
of vegetation, and, shimmering in the distance, the blue Gulf of Corinth. After a series of 

steep climbs up stony paths, 
the village of Kastri was 
reached, and soon the cliffs 
of the Pheedriadag, the "shin- 
ing rocks" of the ancients, 
appeared, between which the 
Castalian spring gushes forth, 
and the temple ruins could 
be discerned on the mountain 
side. The situation of Delphi, 
with its sanctuaries, is a 
superb and unequaled one. 
The only remains are the 
ruins of Temples and Treas- 
ure Houses that have been 
excavated by the French. 
These Temples were placed 
on the slope of the moun- 
tain, near the cliffs of the 
Phsedriadae, which belong to 
the foot-hills of the Parnassos. They are situated immediately at the foot of the cliffs 
and overlook the deep valley which stretches for many miles to the east and west, flanked by 
high, grey mountains nearly bare of vegetation, but showing here and there patches of color on 
the table-lands or level stretches on their summits, where fields are cultivated. The situation 




GREEK MUSICIANS, DELPHI 



12 




THE CLEFT FROM WHICH THE CASTALIAX SPRIXG ISSUES 



is grander than that of Olympia, which is in a level plain surrounded by hills pleasing in 
contour but not imposing by reason of height. 

The first ruins to be inspected were those of the Temple of Athene Pronaia and of a circular 
building, the Hereon, both beyond and below the Castalian spring, the Heroon consisting only 
of a marble foundation with three steps and finely sculptured and decorated fragments of the 
same material. Of the Temple of Athene Pronaia several pillars of a reddish-brown stone are 
still erect, one of them with an entablature on top. The next object of interest was the famous 

Castalian spring or fountain issuing 
out of the side of a cleft or fissure 
between the two Phaedriadae. This 
cleft, which is said to have so greatly 
impressed the ancients, is of rather 
small dimensions. During the win- 
ter months and after heavy rains, a 
waterfall pours down the fissure, but 
it was drv at the time of our visit. 
Nor is the Castalian fountain much 
more impressive. The imagination 
may possibly conjure up different sur- 
roundings and settings out of the ruin- 
ous and dilapidated conditions obtain- 
ing around this sacred spot, and, if 
so, it becomes hallowed and one can 
then realize the mystery that haunted 
this celebrated fountain, in which in 
olden times the pilgrims to Delphi washed themselves before consulting the divine oracle. 

The excavations of the sacred precincts proper, undertaken by the French, extend upward 
from the road toward the cliffs. A sacred way, now unearthed, leads up through the enclosure 
in a zig-zag and passes a Treasure House, or Temple of Athene, which has been partly re-erected, 
a column dedicated by the Naxians, and an innumerable quantity of pedestals and bases for 
votive statues erected along the sacred way by various states and cities, commemorative of 
victories and other celebrated events in their history. Among these votive structures the 
Treasure House of Knidos is the best pre- 
served. The remains of its beautiful sculpt- 
ures have been deposited in the Museum. 

Of the celebrated Temple of Apollo, only 
foundations and floor are left, and hardly any- 
thing can be distinguished of the superstruc- 
ture. The position of this temple was the 
grandest that can well be imagined. Placed 
on a level platform projecting from the steep 
side of the mountain, this beautiful temple, 
with its great proportions and white coloring, 
must have dominated the entire scene, con- 
spicuous, as it was, from all sides and for 
many miles up and down the valley below. 
In the floor of the temple can still be seen 

traces of the fissure through which the vapors arose and the subterranean rumblings 
issued, and over which the golden tripod was placed as a seat for the oracle or prophetic 
priestess. 

Farther up the mountain side a fine semi-circular theatre has been discovered, its seats 
still intact, and its auditorium looking out upon the magnificent panorama of widespread valley 
and high mountains in the distance. The Museum contains the celebrated "Charioteer," 
an impressive figure in bronze, perfectly preserved with the exception of the left arm, which 




TAliLKS SPREAD FOR LUMCHF.OX, DELPHI 



13 




VIEW FROM THEATRE, DELPHI 




14 



THEATRE, DELPHI 



is lacking. The eyes of ivory, with black eyeballs, are in place. The collection in the Museum 
includes the fine sculptures of the Treasure House of Knidos, and is very well arranged, better, 
in fact, than that of the Museum at Olympia. The French have under preparation an elabor- 
ate description of their interesting discoveries at Delphi, and until this description is published 
they decline to permit any photographs of the treasures in the Museum and of the temples in 
the sacred precinct to be taken. 

On our way down the mountain from Delphi to Itea our donkeys and mules climbed and 
scrambled down precipitous, zig-zag paths, over loose stones and rocks, in a manner that excited 
our admiration of the skill of these animals in this difficult kind of work. On reaching the plain, 
we again passed vineyard after vineyard and could witness the method of wine-making in these 
countries, which, when seen, does not create a great desire to try the newly -made product. 



Where is thy crown of beauty, Dorian maid, 
Corinth, thy towers, thy wealth, of old uplaid ? 
Gone are thy fanes, thy palaces, thy proud 
Sisyphian dames, — thy once unnumbered crowd. 
O ill-starred city. War hath reft away 
Thine all; no relic of thee lives to-day. 
Only, like sea-birds that outlast the storm. 
We, Ocean-Nymphs, yet haunt thy ruined form. 
— Aniipaler of Sidon, 

Leivis Caiiipbell's trandation. 

Athens, Greece, October 9, 1904. 
The steamer remained at Itea until after daybreak this morning, when she left her anchorage 
and steamed to Corinth, arriving there about 9 a. m. Unfortunately, the hanging clouds 

obstructed or impaired the 
beautiful view of the Corin- 
thian Gulf that there pre- 
sents itself to the traveler. 
We landed on a rickety little 
pier and proceeded by car- 
riage and cart to the town of 
Old Corinth, some five miles 
distant from New Corinth, 
where a tent had been erected 
and all arrangements for 
lunch made by our indus- 
trious stewards. 

Dr. Schrader took us 
through the excavations made 
here by the Americans. These 
consist of a Temple of Apollo, 
of which only a few columns, 
with the entablature and the 
foundations, are left, and of 
the principal ancient street 
which led up from the port to 
the town, wider than the ordi- 
nary street of the ancients, 
and provided with side-walks 
and with bases for statues 
on either side. The princi- 
pal discovery, however, made 
by the Americans consists of 




FOUNTAIN OF PEIRENE, CORINTH 



15 



the fountain of Peirene, which supphed the city with water. The water gushed out through 
arched enclosures which open into a fine court surrounded with walls decorated with marble 
sculptures. These discoveries are most interesting, and it is to be hoped that the excavations 
will be continued. 

After returning to New Corinth, we took a special train for Athens, arriving there at 
6.30 p. m., and finding comfortable quarters in the Hotel Grande Bretagne. 



^ 





Know of a truth, that onl_v the Time shadows have perished or are perishable; that 
the real Being of whatever was and whatever is and whatever will be, is even now and 
forever. This, should it unhappily seem new, thou may'st ponder at thy leisure; for the 
next twenty years or the ne.xt twenty centuries: believe it thou must: understand it thou 
canst not. — T/iomas Cariy/e, "Sartor Resartus." 

Athens, October 10, 1904. 
The sun rose in a perfectly s 

clear sky, and it was therefore 

determined to devote the -.,: 

morning to the Acropolis. 

The pilgrims found carriages 

awaiting them at the door of 

the hotel, and were rapidly 

conveyed to the entrance of 

the Acropolis. Here, before 

entering the sacred precinct. 

Dr. Schrader indicated to the 

assembled company the vari- 
ous points of interest that 

can be discerned from the 

hill, Mount Hymettos, famed 

in ancient times for its honey, 

on the east, and the Pentel- 

icos, whence the marble was 

quarried for Athens, on the 

northwest, while to the south 

Salamis and /Egina appeared in the distant sea, and in the foreground Pirseus intervened. 

The graceful Mount Lycabettos towered over the city on the north, crowned with a mon- 
astery, and near the Acrop- 
olis, on the south, appeared 
the Areopagos, on which the 
courts of justice sat ; the 
Pnyx, on which the people 
of Athens held their public 
meetings, and the hill of 
Philopappos, with a monu- 
ment on its summit. 

On entering the Propy- 
laea. Dr. Schrader explained 
its architectural and archaeo- 
logical features with great 
clearness. A small temple 
of Athene Nike, formerly in 
ruins, but re-constructed sixty 
years ago, stands on a pro- 
jecting platform before the 
Propylaea. The frieze of this 

INTERIOR OF THE PARTHENON, ACROPOLIS OF ATHENS 



TEMPLE OF ATHENE NIKE ACROPOLIS OF ATHENS 




16 




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temple is especially interesting, but is only partly in situ, four panels having been taken to 
London by Lord Elgin, where they now are deposited in the British Museum. 

The imposing Propylasa, consisting of a central gateway and two wings, were greatly 
admired by the pilgrims, especially the workmanship discernible in the hall at the inner end of 
the structure. Dr. Schrader then elucidated the topography of the Acropolis Hill and its original 
level, which has been changed by the filling in with rubbish of the declivity that formerly existed 




THE ERECHTHEION, ACROPOLIS OF ATHEXS 

on the eastern side of the hill, and the construction of the great retaining wall, now so con- 
spicuous a feature of the Acropolis. These changes were made shortly after the Persian wars, 
and to them is ascribable the preservation of many of the ancient archaic sculptures now 
in the Acropolis Museum, as among the rubbish used for filling were buried many of the old 
statues and reliefs that at first adorned the Acropolis and that were discarded and thrown 
away, to be used for filling-in purposes, after the advance in art and education had rendered 
these archaic sculptures out of date. 

The Parthenon, that most imposing temple structure, still grand in its present dilapidated 
condition, occupied the undivided attention of the pilgrims under Dr. Schrader's guidance for 
some time. The fact was pointed out that the central portion of the temple and other parts 
were not destroyed by earthquake, but by a shell, which blew up the powder magazine of the 
Turks in the Parthenon during the bombardment of Athens and the Acropolis by the Venetians 
in the latter part of the 17th Century. It was a German artillery officer in the service of the 
Venetians who enjoys the doubtful distinction of having, after many ineffectual efforts, suc- 
ceeded in exploding the powder magazine, and the wretch is said to have ever afterward taken 
great credit to himself for having partially destroyed one of the most beautiful monuments 
of ancient art. 

The Erechtheion was the next building visited. The northern fagade of this beautiful 
edifice has recently with great taste and judgment been restored and re-built by the Greek 
architect in charge of the Acropolis. The Acropolis Museum contains the sculptures found 
on the spot, mostly archaic remains of the figures adorning the older temples that preceded 
the Parthenon on this historic hill. 



17 




FRONT VIEW OF THE PARTHENON, ACROPOLIS (IF ATHENS 




SIDE VIEW OF THK PARTHENON, ACUl H'l 1 1, is "I Mill 



IS 




In the afternoon tlie National Museum was visited, wliich contains specimens of scul]jturcs 
found in Athens, many of them most interesting in their composition and execution. Dr. 

Schrader undertook the explanation of the sculptures, 
beginning; witli the earliest specimens of archaic Greek 
art, formless and wooden, with the usual conventional 
smile on their features, and thence developing into the 
beautiful art creations of the Periclean period — -a fine 
Apollo, a majestic Poseidon from IMelos, a miniature 
copy of Phidias, Pallas Athene of the Parthenon, and 
others equally interesting. Among the sculptures are 
also a large number of sepulcliral reliefs, showing the 
departed one bidding good-by to his relatives, but 
without any painful display of distress or grief. The 
finest of these reliefs is that of a young man, evidently 
a hunter, who is depicted gazing meditatively into space 
and leaning on his spear, his hunting dog at his feet and 
his slave boy asleep on the 
ground behind him, while his 
aged father is shown in profile, 
his hand holding his chin and 
his eyes fixed sorrowfully on 
his son. A votive tablet con- 
taining a relief of the 5th 
Century B. C. shows the god- 
dess Demeter presenting Trip- 
tolemos, the patron of hus- 
bandry, with grains of corn, 
while Persephone places a gar- 
land upon Triptolemos' head. Another relief of great merit is that 

of a Nike bend- 
ing over to 
loosen her san- 
d a 1 . The 
drapery of this 
figure is marvel- 
ous. A bronze 
Hermes, re- 
covered of late 
from the wreck 
of a vessel sunk 

about 200 B. C. on the Greek coast, 
creates a great deal of interest, but I 
must confess that I could not share in 
the general admiration expressed for 
this statue. It appeared to me that the 
face was lacking in manliness, and I 
should think that the figure had been 
intended to represent Paris awarding the 
apple rather than Hermes. 



SEPULCHR.\L RELIEF. X.^TIOX,\L MUSEUM, .\THEXS 



POSEIDOX, NATIOX.-\L MUSEUM, ATHEXS 





ARCHAIC STATUE OF 

ATHENE, NATIONAL 

MUSEUM, ATHENS 



19 





HEAD OF DEMOSTHENES, NATIOXAL 
MUSEUM, ATHENS 



RELIEF OF DEMETER GIVING TRIPTOLEMOS. 

THE PATRON OF HUSBANDRY, GRAINS OF 

CORN, NATIONAL MUSEUM, ATHENS 




PART OF FRIEZE OF PARTHENON. NATIONAL MUSEUM ATHENS 



20 




Wherever literature consoles sorrow or assuages pain; wherever 
it brings gladness to eyes which fail with wakefulness and tears, and 
ache for the dark house and the long sleep — there is exhibited in its 
n()l>lesl form the immortal influence of Athens. 

— Mamulay, "JCssay on Mi/ford's History o; Greece." 

Athens, October 11, 1904. 
The morning was taken up with a general view, 
conducted by Dr. Schrader, of the Theseion, the Odeion, 
the theatre of Dionysos, the Olympieion, the new 
Stadion, the ancient burial-ground and the Pnyx. In 
the afternoon Dr. Schrader took the company through 
that part of the National Museum containing the 
sepulchral ornaments of gold and silver, household 
articles, weapons and vases excavated in various parts of 
Greece, and including the magnificent treasure of gold and 
silver articles found by Dr. Schliemann in his excava- 
tions in Mykenae, which have established the remark- 
able fact that, contrary to former views held by 
archaeologists, an art period of great excellence existed 
in parts of Greece, notably in Mykenae, long before 
the first rude Hellenic art productions that had previ- 
ously been found. The Mykenean treasures in the 
Athens Museum, evidently formerly belonging to princes 
or rulers and buried with them, to which circumstance they owe their preservation, are of 
great extent and richness. 

In the evening Dr. Schrader delivered a lecture before the assembled pilgrims in the 
German Archaeological Institute, explanatory of the Mvkenean period of civilization, evidences 
of which we shall see when we visit Mykenee and Tiryns, also referring to the excavations con- 
ducted by the British at Knosos, in Crete, that have recently furnished very remarkable results. 
Dr. Schrader drew attention to the curious resemblance of some of the decorations employed 
by the Mykeneans to those of the Japanese. There are knives or daggers of the Mykenean 
period in the Museum in Athens, the inlaid work on which reminds one forcibly of Japanese art. 



RELIEF OF NIKE, .\,\TIO\.\L MUSEU.M, .ATHE.NS 



Athens, the eye of Greece, mother of 

arts 
And eloquence. 
— Milton, "Paradise Regained." 

Athens, October 12, 1904 
A beautiful night gave 
promise of a fine sunrise. 
Gus and I therefore rose at 5 
a. m., and set forth for the 
summit of the Lycabettos.the 
graceful hill to the north of 
Athens, which towers like a 
pyramid above the city. We 
reached the top half an hour 
before sunrise and found a 
chapel there, in front of which 
a terrace gave an unob- 
structed view of the grand 
panorama that unfolded itself 




-MT. LYC.\BETTOS. .\THENS 



21 



before us. At our feet lay the City of Athens in obscurity, bej'ond 
the city the Acropohs rose grey and solemn, crowned with the 
Parthenon; and farther on beyond Piraeus, the Islands of Salamis 
and /Egina lay in the smooth sea, while the background to the 
south was formed by the mountains of the Peloponnesos. To the 
east the grey and brown mass of the Hymettos loomed up, while 
in the west we searched unsuccessfully for far-off Aero Corinth 
and Mount Parnassos, both swallowed up in the haze. Gradu- 
ally the landscape lightened, the mountain tops to the west were 
touched with pink, and then the country around reflected the 
first rays of the sun, while the Acropolis still lay in the shadow 
thrown by Mount Hymettos. When Helios finally touched the 
Parthenon, the reddish pillars became pink and the white 
marble glowed as if transparent. It was a glorious sight and 
well worth the early morning climb of half an hour up a steep 
mountain path. 

On returning to the city, we paid another visit to the Acropolis, 
and wandered around and over the sacred hill ending with the 
Acropolis Museum, which contains a remarkable series of statues 
of priestesses or goddesses of archaic form among its treasures. 
We then again passed through the National Museum, dwell- 
ing long before our favorite statues and reliefs, and at 3.30 
p. m. departed in carriages for Piraeus, where we found the 
"Schleswig" waiting for us. 




MINL\TURE OF PALLAS ATHENE BY 

I'HIDIAS, NATIONAL MUSEUM, 

ATHENS 



Who can paint 
Like nature? Can imagination boast. 
Amid its gay creation, hues lilce hers? 
Or can it mi.x them with that matchless skill, 
And lose them in each other, as appears 
In every bud that blows ? 

— Thomson, ' ' The Seasons. ' ' 

Santorin, Greece, October 13, 1904. 
This island is situated in the /Egean Sea, about one hundred and fifty miles south of 
Athens. It is of volcanic origin and is probabh^ the most remarkable natural phenomenon 
that is to be seen in the Mediterranean. The island formerly consisted of one large and extensive 

mountain, some six thousand 
five hundred feet in height 
and spreading out in slopes 
toward the sea on all sides. 
About two thousand years 
ago the mountain was sub- 
jected to violent volcanic 
action, which caused the dis- 
appearance of its summit, 
leaving a large and deep cra- 
ter in the centre which the 
sea filled, the rim of the cra- 
ter surrounding this central 
sea in a circle interrupted 
by two openings communi- 
cating with the Mediterra- 
nean. The rim of this extinct, 
water-filled crater, which is 

THE STEAM PINNACE SEEKING AN ANCHORAGE AT SANTORIN 




22 




CLIFFS 1,000 FEET HIGH, .S.\NTORIN 



about ten miles in diameter, 
consists of cliffs one thousand 
feet in height. The coloring 
of the cliffs, which present 
their bold outline against the 
sky, is one of the remarkable 
features of this wonder of 
nature. Red, brown, grey 
and white tints in horizontal 
streaks extend around their 
precipitous sides, and on their 
summit populous towns and 
cities are built, the white 
houses of which form a most 
vivid and delightful contrast 
to the predominant red, brown 
and grey color of the rocky 
heights. In the centre of the 

inland sea formed by the extinct crater are two small lava islands formed by later volcanic 

action. The last eruption occurred in 186G and destroyed a village on the shore of one of 

the little islands. These two islands are of 

such recent formation that they contain 

little if any vegetation. The rim of the old 

crater which now forms the Island of Santorin 

radiates in gentle slopes from the high cliffs of 

the central sea to the Mediterranean. These 

radiating declivities or slopes, covering many 

square miles of surface, are densely culti- 
vated and yield a rather fiery wine, that 

■forms the chief production of the island 

and a very valuable source of revenue 

for its inhabitants, who export it chiefly to 

Southern Russia, where it is esteemed very 

highly, and whence grain is imported into the island in exchange. 

On approaching Santorin this morning, the pinnace was sent ahead to verify the depths given in 

the Admiralty charts on 
board, and to seek the only 
anchorage-ground that the 
inland sea offers. This anchor- 
age is hardly more than two 
hundred feet square and con- 
sists of a submarine eminence 
cast up by volcanic activity. 
Every other part of the inland 
sea surrounded b}' Santorin 
Island is so deep that anchor- 
age cannot be found for any 
ordinarv length of anchor- 
chain or cable. The steamer 
slowlv followed the pinnace 
into the central sea, passing 
through one of the openings 
THE L.^NDi.xG-PL.uE OX THE L.^\A isL.^MJb between the high cliffs. The 




THE LAVA ISLANDS IN THE INLAN'D SEA 




23 




ON THE SUMMIT OF THE EXTINCT VOLCANO 



pinnace marked the anchor- 
age-ground near one of tTie 

central small islands with a 

buoy, and the steamer 

anchored in about thirty 

fathoms. The boats were 

made ready and were towed 

by the pinnace to a sheltered 

bay in one of the small 

islands, where, after finding a 

safe approach to the rocky 

shore by sounding, the pil- 
grims landed on the lava 

rocks and picked their way 

carefully and laboriously to the rough path which had been cut up to the most recent crater 

on the island. After a very hard climb of five hundred feet the summit was reached, where 

we were rewarded by a fine view of the inland sea and the high cliffs surrounding it. Professor 

Sapper, of the geological fac- 
ulty of the University of Tii- 
bingen, who happened to be on 
the island of Santorin for the 
purpose of making scientific 
investigations, and who joined 
our party, made an impromp- 
tu address here, giving us the 
geological history of this 
remarkable island, which owes 
its existence and its present 
formation to volcanic action 
alone, and which presents 
probably the most unique 
and interesting instance of 
such action in the known 
world. After descending the 
crater over loose lava and 
stone, the party returned to 
the boats, stopping to exam- 
ine the uncanny sulphurous springs boiling up along the shores of the island. 

A large number of pilgrims expressed the desire to visit Thira,the principal city of the island 

of Santorin, on the summit of that part of the cliffs opposite which the steamer lay. The}' 

were conveyed to the little 

quay at the foot of the cliff, 

whence a zig-zag path led up 

the face of the precipice to 

the white city gleaming in 

the sunlight one thousand 

feet above the water. We 

found the city clean, pictur- 
esque and entirely innocent t^^^f^^^^^^^KKHlKl^^S^SS^ 

of any modern improvements. 

It was evidently the same as 

it might have been one 

thousand years ago. We were 

conducted bv Dr. Wiegand 

■' iv-gaiiii ^^^ CLIFFS, CROWNED WITH THE CITY OF THIRA 




DESCENDING TO THE BOATS 




24 




THE CITY OF THIRA 




VIEW FROM CLIFF 



to a small hotel, where we 
sampled the strong, fiery 
wine of Santorin, and then 
visited the Museum of the 
city, where the ancient 
objects excavated on the 
island are exhibited. These 
include a number of inter- 
esting busts and archaic vases, 
the latter of very rude work- 
manship, probably antedating 
the Mykenean period. 
Descending the steep, zig- 
zag path from the citv on the 
cliff to the inland sea, we 
returned to the steamer, glad 
to rest after our physical 
exertions in walking over lava debris 
and climbing up steep mountain 
paths. This day at Santorin, which 
showed us nature in her most 
stupendous works, was a welcome 
change after our round of art studv 
and contemplation. The steamer 
weighed anchor at 5 p. m. and slowh' 
steamed out of the great crater of 
Santorin in the light of the evening 
sun, which illumined the volcanic 
cliffs and the high white-walled cities 
on their summit in a magic glow. 




Like the baseless fabric of this vision. 

The cloud-capped towers, the gorgeous palaces, 

The solemn temples, the great globe itself, 

Yea, all which it inherit, shall dissolve, 

And like this insubstantial pageant faded 

Leave not a rack behind. 

— Shakespeare, "The Tempest y 

Candia, October 14, 1904. 
Candia, or Crete, is situated sixty-three 
miles south of Santorin. It is a large island, 
the largest of this archipelago, formerly 
under Turkish rule, but now only nomi- 
nally under the suzerainty of the Sultan, as 
it is controlled by the great powers, by 
whom Prince George of Greece has been 
established on the island as its Governor- 
General. The ultimate destiny of Crete will, 
no doubt, be its incorporation in the Kingdom 
of Greece, but there are obstacles in the way, 
chief of which is the large public debt of 



LITTLE GREEK BEAUTY. SANTOKIX 



25 




HARBOR ENTRANCE, CANDIA 



Greece, part of which mus^ be assumed by 
Crete if it is taken over by Greece, and this 
would place a heavy burden on the island. 

Our steamer cast anchor off the ancient 
town of Herakleion, now Candia, late last 
night, and at 8 a. m. landing operations 
began in a lively sea that threw the spray 
over the dancing boats as they were towed 
into the harbor by the pinnace. 

The old harbor is the work of the Vene- 
tians, whose possession Crete was for many 
centuries, and the Lion of St. Mark still appears in sculptured stone upon the great walls 
of the fortified port. The town shows a queer mixture of European and Oriental civilization, 
and European and Turkish costumes are seen side by side. The physical appearance of the 
people is superb, and they seem to be of good stock, well built and with fine and frequently 
striking faces. Especially the police, organized by the Italians on the plan of the Carabinieri 
of Italy, uniformed in black and of magnificent build, are noticeable. They walk along in city 
and country, two by two, as the Carabinieri 
do in Italy, and life and property are 
entirely safe here under their watchful care. 
Our way from the harbor led us past a 
fine old fountain erected in memory of the 
Venetian Doge Morosini at the end of the 
17th Century. A few mosques with their 
minarets were also passed, but the Turkish 
population of the island has been materially 
reduced by emigration since the change in 
government, and the Greek type now pre- 
dominates. 

The Museum established by the Gov- 
ernment was the first object of our atten- 
tion. It contains many of the vases, 
frescoes, sarcophagi and other articles excavated at Knosos and other points in the island. 
The party then took carriages, donkeys and mules for the palace excavations of Knosos, 
some five miles in the interior. These excavations are conducted by the English under 
the leadership of Mr. Arthur Evans, and have recently led to remarkable discoveries 
of great interest to archaeologists. The entire ground-plan of the old palace of the mighty 
King Minos has now been uncovered. It is known 
as the Labyrinth in which the Minotaurus dwelt, to 

whom a certain number of youths and maidens were ?j^ 

sacrificed every year. This, no doubt, is fable, but _ , "1 

the facts established by the researches and discov- 
eries of the English show that the palace of Minos 
belonged to a pre-historic period of civilization ante- 
dating the Mykenean, of which so many interesting 
remains have been discovered in Mykenae and Tiryns. 
Knosos is placed by the archaeologists in the period 
between 2000 and 1500 B.C. Dr. Wiegand, who had 
delivered an interesting lecture on board the steamer 
on the evening before our arrival at Candia, on the 
Knosos discoveries, and a Greek archaeologist, who 
represents the Government, led the company through 
the ruins after an ample lunch had been discussed, 
prepared by the ship's stewards on tables and on the road to knosos 




STREET IN CANDIA 




26 



benches brought from the steamer, witli all the accessories of civilization, such as table covers, 
napkins, etc. 

Remains of private dwellings attached to the palace were seen, generally showing a very 
simple arrangement of rooms around a central open court into which the living-room gave. 
In this living-room was a throne for the head of the house, whose authority over the household 
in those primeval, happy days was as supreme and unquestioned as that of any absolute 
monarch. Bath-rooms, with evidences of considerable refinement of civilization, have been 
uncovered, one of them showing traces of fresco painting, and a well-planned system of pipes for 
conveying the water-supply 

and for removing sewage is /^ 

now shown, the latter empty- 
ing into a little stream in 
the valley in which Knosos 
is situated. In the palace 
proper a large number of 
store-rooms have been exca- 
vated containing enormous 
amphorae or jars for the 
storage of wine, while in the 
ground are pits lined with 
alabaster and covered over 
with the same material, in 
which grain and other sup- 
plies were kept to provide 
against a siege, which was 
probably not an infrequent 
occurrence in those days. In 
one part of the palace the 
audience-hall of the king has 

been discovered, containing a stone chair or throne, the seat and back of which are hollowed 
to fit the form of the sitter, exactly as our chairs with wooden seats are frequently constructed 
at the present day. In one corner of the audience-hall there is a basin or depression reached 
by a few steps, and apparently intended for a bath; but, as no openings in the sides or 
bottom can be discovered, the basin must have been used for some other purpose. A small 
palace chapel has been found containing archaic figures of some deities and jars evidently 

intended for votive offerings to the 
gods. 

The impression conveyed by a 
-^ visit to these interesting remains, and 

IL ^„^ ^..tm to the Museum containing the objects 

^ ' '^Jiii" '"* "^^^^^1 found on the site of the palace, is 

that the people who erected these 
dwellings and lived in them must 
have reached a comparatively high 
state of civilization at that early 
period, from twenty to fifteen cen- 
turies before Christ. 

So far the efforts to decipher the 
Mykenean characters as inscribed on 
tablets dating from that period have 
been unsuccessful, but the key will be 
found in the course of time, and we 
shall then know more of the hidden mysteries of this ancient civilization. Mr. Hazedakis, the 
Greek archaeologist of Candia, who accompanied us through the excavations at Knosos, informed 




.\RRI\AL AT KXUSUb 




EXCAVATIONS UF KXuSuS 



27 



us that Mr. Evans, who is in charge of the interesting work, has recently discovered the 
key to the numerals in the ]\Iykenean writings. This is undoubtedly the beginning and will be 

followed by further discoveries in this particular field. 

Mr. Evans himself was absent at the time of our 

visit to Knosos. 

Returning to the harbor of Candia, we bade 

good-by to the Island of Crete, which was believed by 

the ancients to have been the birthplace of Zeus, 

and sailed for Rhodos. 



Nor can imagination quit the shores 
Of those bright scenes without a farewell glance 
Given to the dream-like issues, the romance 
Of many-colored life that fortune pours 
Round the Crusaders, till on distant shores 
Their labors end. 

— IVordsworlh. 




THE STORE ROOMS ( )l KIXC MINOS' PALACE 




Rhodos, Turkey, October 15, 1904. 
The steamer anchored off the pleasant-looking port of Rhodos early in the morning, and 

the landing party proceeded ashore to view the town. Rhodos contains no traces of its 

ancient prominence in commerce and in 

art. Its only present fame is based upon 

the fact that it was during the Middle Ages 

the possession and fastness of the Knights 

of St. John of Jerusalem, whose head was a 

Grand Master. These Knights established 

themselves here, after having taken the island 

from the Saracens, and fortified the harbor 

strongly. Remains of these fortifications, 

which were taken by the Turks under Soliman, 

in the year 1522, when the Knights removed 

to Malta, are still in existence, and the pal- 
aces and houses of the Knights are now 

inhabited by the Turks. The palace of the 

Grand Master is now a prison, in which polit- 
ical prisoners and criminals are confined. 

One of the ancient myths that historical research has dissolved into nothing is the story 

of the Colossus of Rhodes, an enormous figure, one foot of which was said to have been planted 

on one side of the entrance 
to the port and the other 
foot on the other side, vessels 
passing in and out under the 
figure, which held a torch and 
served as a light-house, mark- 
ing the approach to the 
harbor. The only true basis 
for this story is the historical 
fact that the Rhodians, in 
the year 338 B. C, erected 
a colossal bronze statue of 
Apollo, said to have been 120 
feet in height, which was de- 
HARBOR OF RHODOS stroyed, broken off at the 



\ I \l r I s \I KNOSOS 




28 



.w5.^^' 




A MODERN RHOUIAN 



knees, in 2S2 B. C, by an 
earthquake. Nothing is left 
of this colossal figure at the 
present day, and not even 
its site is known. 

Rhodos is said to enjoy a 
delightfully equable and 
sunny climate, and was re- 
garded by the ancients as a 
favorite of the Sun God. It 
did not belie its reputation 
at the time of our visit. 

The historical fact is in- 
teresting that during the 
period of Rhodos' pre-emi- 
nence as a commercial and maritime power in the Mediterranean, beginning with the 4th 

Century B.C., the city's code 

of maritime law was supreme 

in the entire Mediterranean, 

and this code was finally 

adopted by the Romans. Its 

schools of sculpture and of 

rhetoric were equally well 

known throughout the civil- 
ized world of those daj's. 
At noon, the pilgrims 

having returned from their 

wanderings through the town 

of Rhodos, the steamer 

weighed anchor and pro- 
ceeded along the coast of 

Asia Minor, past the site of 

the ancient city of Knidos, 

the inhabitants of which 

erected the temple-treasure 

house in Delphi, the frieze 

of which had excited our special admiration, and the city of Budrun, formerly Halicarnassos, 

the site of the monument to King Mausolos, remains of which are now in the British 

Museum. The Knights of St. 
John had one of their fort- 
resses here, a formidable 
castle in a commanding posi- 
tion above the sea. This is 
one of many similar fortresses 
which were held by the 
Knights along the coast of 
Asia Minor. 

After threading a narrow 
passage between the islands, 
the steamer cast anchor 
opposite the island of Samos, 
south of the mouth of the 
Meander, in Kowella bay, 
Asia Minor. 




STREET IM RHODOS 




COURTYARD OF HOUSE IN RHODOS 



29 



The world will turn when we are earth 
As though we had not come nor gone; 
There was no lack before our birth, 
When we are gone there will be none. 
— Omar Khayyam. 

Kowella Bay, near Miletus, Asia Minor, 
October 16, 1904. 

At 5 a. m. the commissariat departed with 
the provisions for Miletus. The pilgrims 
landed at 8 a. m. on a rocky, uninhabited 
shore near the mouth of the Meander. To 
MILETUS OF TO-DAY ^^^ ^^^^^^ -^^ ^j^g distance. Mount Mykele 

appeared, where the Greeks defeated the Persians on the same day, in the year 479 B. C, on 
which another Persian army was defeated by the Greeks at Platsa. This double victory 
turned the tide against the Persians and saved European civilization from Oriental domination. 
It was a turning-point in the history of mankind, for, had the Persians been victorious, 
the entire complexion of the then civilized world would have changed, and there is no ques- 
tion but that the history of the whole world since that date would have been an entirely 
different one. To the west the high mountains of Samos were seen, famous in ancient history 
for its wine and its commerce. 

On landing, a number of ancient- looking horses were found ready, and, as only three or four 





KOWELLA BAY 



ON THE ROAD TO MILETUS 



carriages could be obtained for ladies and old or infirm gentlemen, most of the pilgrims were 
obliged to make a virtue of necessity and to bestride the quadrupeds, whose saddles were less 
archaic in shape and construction than those of Delphi. Ladies were obliged to ride man- 
fashion in the best way they could, but, as the cavalcade did not proceed at a greater speed 
than a walk, everything went well, with one or two exceptions. In two hours' time, after riding 
through a rather desolate and lonely-looking country, along shallow valleys and over hills 
covered with a low, brush-like growth and but few trees, we reached the collection of huts that 
now marks the site of one of the most powerful cities of the ancient world, Miletus. 

This city was founded by the Greeks as 
one of their colonies in the 7th or 6th Century 
B. C, and soon became a most important 
centre of commerce. Asia Minor, in the words 
of Dr. Wiegand, then occupied the same 
position toward Greece as North America did 
to Europe in later days, and Miletus might 
have been compared to New York in her 
relative importance. Her power is illustrated 
by the fact that she established no less than 

SHIPS THAT PASS 




30 



sixty tributary cities along the coast of Asia 
Minor and in the Black Sea, including 
Byzantium, afterward known as Constanti- 
nople. The encroachments of Miletus in the 
interior of Asia, where she penetrated as far 
as Sardis, were the original cause of the 
Persian wars, in which the Greeks only suc- 
ceeded in turning back the tide of Oriental 
invasion after long and great effort. 

The city was originally situated on the 
shore of the sea, but at the present day, 
owing to the gradual deposit of material and 
the raising of its bed by the river Meander, the site of the ancient city is surrounded by 
low, swampy land and is at some distance from the sea. The inundations of the river and the 
material of which many of the houses were built have covered the old city to a depth of twelve 
feet or more, and, before the excavations were begun, five years ago, only a few isolated ruins, 
such as the theatre and the Thermas, appeared above the surface of the ground. 

Through the liberality of a number of German gentlemen, headed by the Emperor, funds 
were provided for the exploration of this important site, and the work was finally aided by the 





THE RKM.MNS OF OLD MILETUS 




EXCA\"ATI0NS AT MILETUS 



PLAIN ONCE COVERED BY THE SEA 



German Government. After some examinations had been made, the ancient street leading from 
the city directly to the Temple of Apollo, at Didyma, some ten miles to the south, was uncovered, 
and the clue to further discoveries was thus found. 

Before examining the interesting results of the present excavations, we were led by 
Dr. Wiegand to a mosque, erected under Sultan Bayadiz, in the year 1501, on the ground 
covering the ancient city. This mosque is considered one of the most beautiful specimens of 
Arab architecture in existence. Its doors and its windows, framed in exquisite traceries, are 
especially noteworthy. The mosque has been 
damaged by earthquakes, and is in a some- 
what dilapidated condition although still 
intact. Through the generosity of a Turkish 
Pasha, who owns much land in this vicinity, 
the means have been provided for repairing 
and restoring this interesting edifice, under the 
supervision of one of the architects attached 
to the German Commission at Miletus. 

Our inspection of the excavations began 
with the city fountain, the masonry core of sanctuary of apollo 




31 




SPECTATORS, MILETUS 



which is still in situ, although despoiled of its marble covering and decorations, its appearance 
must have been similar to that of the fountain of the Acqua Paola, in Rome. From its 
reservoir the city was supplied with water. The sanctuar}' of Apollo was then visited, showing 
only the foundation-walls of the sanctuary, around which there appears to have been a forum 
or market. In this place a 
number of most valuable and 
interesting stone tablets, con- 
taining treaties with tribu- 
tary or allied cities, extracts 
of laws and regulations, lists 
of members of various so- 
cieties, etc., have been found 
imbedded in the earth, face 
downward, and evidently 
used to raise the level of the 
market-place. In excavating 
near the market-place, a wall 
has been discovered which 
was evidently hastily thrown 
up by the Milesians as a pro- 
tection against the terrible 
Goths when they threatened 
Asia Minor. In this wall 
the frightened Milesians had built in a great quantity of statues, tablets and other materials 
valuable to the arch^ologist. This treasure is now being gradually mined. As a result of the 
excavations that have been made, a very extensive system of drainage and sewage has been 
discovered, and the entire plan of the sewage plant which emptied into the sea is now known. 
It seems that it is more extensive than that of the largest European continental capitals. 

The Thermas still show some fine masonry work, 
and here, in the shade of the arches, the skillful 
stewards had established tables and benches, the 
former covered with white linen and loaded with 
solid and liquid refreshments of the most appetiz- 
ing kind. Around the Thermae and on the arches of 
the ruins were grouped the entire population of that 
part of the country, Turkish and Greek, thousands of 
men, women and children in picturesque costumes 
who had never seen such a large number of European 
visitors in one party before, and who gazed at our 
luncheon in open-mouthed wonder. 

The ancient City Hall of Miletus, also excavated 
by the Germans, was shown and explained by Dr. 
Wiegand. It contains a semi-circular arrangement 
of ascending seats, accommodating six hundred 
representatives or legislators, with a hall in front, at 
the entrance to which an altar has been discovered 
where the legislators were expected to register their 
vows as representatives of the people, before begin- 
ning their deliberations. 
The idea occurred to many of us that a similar religious act on the part of our modern 
legislators, although unusual, might not be amiss. 

The last building visited was the theatre, an enormous construction dating from the time 
of Trajan, and accommodating twenty-five thousand or thirty thousand spectators. Two- 
thirds of the height of the theatre, with the marble seats arranged in semi-circular form. 




TURKS, MILETUS 



32 



is still intact. The mighty proportions of this monumental building are very impressive. 
Dr. Wiegand had arranged a series of wrestling matches between a number of Greeks, 

Turks and Nubians for our de- 
lectation in the arena or prosceni- 
um of the theatre, after which the 
pilgrims wended their way to the 
carriages and horses and returned to 
the secluded bay, where the steamer 
lay in waiting. At 10 p. m. the 
"Schleswig" weighed anchor and 
steamed northwestward along the 
coast past Patmos, the desert island 
on which the Apostle John, banished 
by the Emperor Domitian, wrote 
his Revelation, or Apocalypse. The 
summit of the island is crowned with 
a convent, in which the monks guard 
a large number of valuable manu- 
scripts, among them a copy of the 
Gospel according to 5t. Mark, of 
the 5th Century. Below the con- 
vent is still shown the cave in which the Apostle lived and in which he saw the visions 
that formed the basis of his Revelation. 




WRESTLING MATCH IN ARI-:n.\ OF THE.\TRE, MILETUS 



The isles of Greece, the isles of Greece, 
Where burning Sappho loved and sung. 
Where grew the arts of war and peace, 
\\'here Delos rose and Phcebus sprung! 
Eternal summer gilds them yet; 
But all except their sun is set. 

— Byron, "Don Juan,'' Canto ///. 



M3^tilene, Turkey, October 17, 1904. 
When we came on deck this morning our 
steamer was approaching the City of 
Smyrna, which is situated in a beautiful 
amphitheater at the end of a deep bay sur- 
rounded by high mountains that rise in grad- 
ual slopes around the cit3^ On anchoring, 
the pinnace was sent ashore to attend to 
the necessary formalities, but soon returned 
with the alarming news that the plague had 
again broken out in Smyrna, a few cases 
having been discovered that very morning. 
We were fortunate in arriving after the 
discovery of these cases, for, had we reached 
the port a few hours earlier and disem- 
barked, we should surely have been quaran- 
tined on arriving at our next port, 
Constantinople. Under the circumstances, 

not having landed or had any communication with Smyrna, we were safe from detention at 
Constantinople, but we were, of course, obliged to abandon our proposed trip from Smyrna 
to Ephesus, where the Austrians are conducting some very interesting excavations on the site 



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33 




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HOME AGAIN AFTER A DAY ON SHORE 



of the old city, and the Enghsh have begun excava- 
tions on the site of the Temple of Diana. After 
dispatching letters and telegrams, our steamer 
turned and sailed out of the bay of Smyrna and 
along the coast of Asia Minor, northward, toward 
the island of Mytilene, where it was decided to spend 
the afternoon and night, sailing for Constantinople 
at 6 a. m. to-morrow. This programme was rendered 
necessary by the fact that the Turkish regulations 
prohibit the passage of the Dardanelles between 
sunset and sunrise, and, in order to reach Constanti- 
nople early in the morning of the 19th, the most 
favorable time to enter the Dardanelles would be 
3 or 4 p. m. 

On arriving at Mytilene we were agreeably sur- 
prised at the attractive and clean appearance of the 
town, the position of which — at the foot of a range 
of mountains, bits of green trees and other growths 
scattered among the white houses, and a great gray 
fortress looming up over it on one side — is an 
impressive one. This fortress was built and 
occupied for many years by the Genoese. On 
landing, our passports were taken by the 
Turkish officials, with the promise to return 
them to us on board the steamer. We passed 
through the lower quarter of the town along 
the shore, and walked up to the old Genoese 
,^ fortress that is now occupied by a Turkish 
411 garrison. From the walls of the fortress we 
enjoyed a fine view of the city and of the old 
port to the north of the neck of land occu- 
pied by the fort. On the parade-ground of 
the fort, the troops, fine-looking men in rather 
dirty uniforms, were drawn up for their even- 
ing parade, which consisted chiefly in an 
addreiss by the commanding 
officer, after which a few dis- 
cordant trumpet tones fol- 
lowed, and the soldiers 
shouted three times with one 
voice, " Padishah tshok 
yasha," literally translated, 
"To the Great Lord (the 
Sultan) many years." This, 
it appears, is the usual con- 
clusion of evening parade in 
the Turkish army. 

Mytilene suffered severely 
in the uprising against the 
Turks in 1821, when some 
twenty thousand of the Greek 
inhabitants of the island were 
massacred. Olives, which are 
grown in superior quality, 



34 



form tlie chief article of its commerce, and the wealth of the island is said to have increased 
considerably during the last half century. The inhabitants appear to be well off and show 
considerable pride in the decoration of their houses and in the cultivation of flowers in their 
door-yards. Greek names and inscriptions are universal, and the Turkish inhabitants appear 
to be small in number. 




SEVEN TOWERS, CGN'STANTINGPLE 



And as when water-fowl of many tribes. 

Geese, cranes and long-necked swans, disport themselves 

In Asia's fields, besides Cayslcr's streams, 

And to and fro they fly with screams, and light. 

Flock after flock, and all the fields resound; 

So poured, from ships and tents, the swarming tribes 

Into Scamander's plain, where fearfully 

Earth echoed to the tramp of steeds and men; 

And there they mustered on the river's side. 

Numberless as the flowers and leaves of spring. 

And as when flies in swarming myriads haunt 

The herdsman's stalls in spring-time, when new milk 

Has filled the pails — in such vast multitudes 

Mustered the long-haired Greeks upon the plain. 

Impatient to destroy the Trojan race. 

— Homer, Iliad, Book II — Bryant's Translaliov . 



Sea of Marmara, October 18, 1904. 

The steamer lay at Mytilene until 6 a. m. to-day, and then sailed for Constantinople. 
Shortly after entering the Dardanelles, the plain was passed in which the ancient city of Troy 
was situated. The site was excavated by Dr. Schliemann, between 1870 and 1891, and nine succes- 
sive layers of as many differ- 
ent cities, one built on the 
ruins of the other, were found. 
Dr. Schliemann regarded the 
second layer as that of old 
Ilion, but later research has 
conclusively established the 
fact that the sixth layer is 
CO -incident with the Myke- 
nean period, and therefore 
undoubtedly represents the 
remains of the city which has 
become celebrated through 
Homer's immortal poem. 

After receiving the visit 
of the Turkish officials at the 
narrowest part of the Dar- 
danelles, where some vessels 
of the Turkish navy lie at 
anchor, we passed the point 
where Leander performed his natatorial feats to meet his Hero, and where Lord Byron 
emulated his illustrious example, and finally emerged in the sea of Marmara. 




AWNING DECK OF S. S. " SCHLESWIG ' 



35 



Is that, indeed, Sophia's far-famed dome, 
Where first the Faith was led in triumph home, 
Like some high bride, with banner and bright sign, 
And melody and flowers ? 

— A7cbrey De Vere. 

Constantinople, October 19, 1904. 

This morning, early, on reaching the deck, we found our steamer at anchor off Haidar Pasha, 
on the Asiatic side of the mouth of the Bosporus. Before us in the distance lav Stamboul, 
with Seraglio Point in the foreground, decorated with stately cypresses. In the background 
rose the dome of Agia Sophia with its four slender minarets, to the left the mosque of Sultan 
Ahmed, and in the dim distance the houses of Galata and Pera rose from the water's edge to the 
sky-line, while on the right, behind Haidar Pasha, appeared Scutari. The sky was grey and the 
air misty, blurring the beautiful picture and robbing it of its best eilects. 

After receiving the visits of the Turkish officials, we weighed anchor and slowly entered the 
Bosporus, passing the Golden Horn, with Stamboul, Galata and Pera on the left, Scutari on 




SOUTHERN ENTRANCE TO THE BOSPORUS, CONSTANTINOPLE 

the right, and the tower of Leander planted in the crowded water-way of the Bosporub. On 
the water's edge the long and dazzling palace of Dolma Bagcheh, at one time the official residence 
of the Sultan, appeared; then, behind and above it, the extensive enclosure of the Yildiz Kiosk, 
the present residence of Sultan Abdul Hamid. Farther on, in the Bosporus, the steamer passed 
the palace of Beyler Bey, in which the Empress Eugenie once resided. The hills on either side 
rose up from the blue water of the Bosporus to a height of some five hundred feet, studded with 
villas and houses, and green with trees and grass. Then came the old twin forts of Anadoli 
Hissar and Rumili Hissar, where the Persian King Xerxes once attempted to cross on his way to 
Greece, and ordered the waters to be whipped because the rapid current had broken his bridge 
of boats. Palace after palace was passed, many belonging to the Sultan and his relatives; the 
palace in which the insane predecessor of the present ruler recently died, and another which is 
the residence of the Sultan's superannuated wives. 



36 




PALACE OF DOLMA BAGCHEH, ON THE BOSPORUS 









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RUMILI HISSAR, ON THE BOSPORUS 




ENTRANCE TO THE BOSPORUS FROiM THE BLACK SEA 

37 



After passing Therapia, 
with its summer colony of 
foreign embassies, and 
Buyukdere, another collection 
of summer residences, the 
steamer finally emerged into 
the Black Sea, where she 
turned and again entered the 
Bosporus from the north. 

The intention had been 
to land at Anadoli Kavak for 
the purpose of visiting an old 
Genoese castle, crowning the 
height on the Asiatic side, 
but a rain-storm defeated 
this plan ; the steamer there- 
fore continued down the 
Bosporus to Therapia, where 
she anchored in order to 
permit the pilgrims to accept 
the courteous invitation of the German Ambassador to visit the park of the Embassy's summer 
residence and to take tea there in the afternoon. Fortunately, the rain ceased, and, although 
the sun remained under a cloud, the al fresco entertainment was very enjoyable, and a ramble 
through the wooded park, which was presented to the Emperor by the Sultan, most pleasant. 

Toward evening the pilgrims re-embarked and the steamer sailed down the Bosporus, 
past its wooded heights and charming villas, to Galata, where she was moored alongside the quay, 
the great old Galata tower of the Genoese looming high above her. 




GALATA AND STAMBOUL 




SUMMER HOMES ON THE BOSPORUS 

3S 




Know yc the land where the cypress and myrtle 

Are emblems of deeds that are done in their clime, 

Where the rage of the vulture, the love of the turtle, 

Now melt into sorrow, now madden to crime? 

Know ye the land of the cedar and vine, 

Where the flowers ever blossom, the beams ever shine, 

Where the light wings of Zephyr, oppressed with [icrfuiiu-, 

Wax faint o'er the gardens of GUI in her bloom ; 

Where the citron and olive arc fairest of fruit. 

And the voice of the nightingale never is mule; 

Where the tints of the earth, and the hues of the skv, 

In color though varied, in beauty may vie, 

And the purple of Ocean is deepest in dye; 

Where the virgins are soft as the roses ihcy twine, 

And all, save the spirit of man, is divine? 

'Tis the clime of the East; 'tis the Land of the Sun. 

— Byron, "The Bride of Abydo^" Ca>i/o /. 



THE GALATA TOWER. CONSTANTINOPLE 



#- 



Constantinople, October 2(J, 1904. 
For the purpose of greater convenience, the pilgrims were divided into three groups, each 
group led by several guides and following different routes. The weather, which seemed to be 

threatening rain early in the 
morning, cleared off soon and 
the bright sun appeared. 
Our route took us along the 
quay to the bridge leading 
from Galata to Stamboul, an 
iron construction resting on 
pontoons, the roadway con- 
sisting of boards. On this 
bridge a continuous stream 
of humanity was crossing, of 
all types, nationalities and 
costumes: Turks with their 
turbans or fez, Circassians in 
long, flowing coats, bearded 
Greek popes in black robes 
with high, black chimney- 
pots on their heads, under 
which their long hair fell 
down on their shoulders, and 
here and there a veiled woman or a bright military uniform — taken all in all, one of the most 
striking pictures one can well see. Through the narrow streets of Stamboul our carriage was 
driven with reckless speed to the Church of St. Sophia, now the chief Mohammedan Mosque. At 
the entrance we turned into a narrow and steep passage paved with rough stones and leading 
up to the gallery, from which a comprehensive view of the interior of the church is obtained. 
This inclined way is in the same condition as when originally built in the 4th Century A. D. 
The present church edifice itself dates from the year 537 A. D., two previous buildings having 
been burned. The external appearance of the church is not imposing, but the interior, even in 
its present condition, with nearly all the magnificent mosaics with which it was embellished 
painted over by the Mohammedans, is most impressive. Crosses are cut out or have had their 
arms removed, and the angels and figures of the Saviour and the Virgin have been painted over. 
Marble reliefs in the side-walls of the church are hidden by enormous green shields covered with 




BRIDGE FROM GALATA TO ST.AMBOUL 



39 




SOPHIA, CONSTANTINOPLE 



sentences from the Koran. 
The sense of symmetry is 
somewhat disturbed by the 
position of the mihrab, or 
altar, on the side of one of 
the windows, and the conse- 
quent diagonal arrangement 
of the carpets and matting 
on the floor of the vast edi- 
fice. This was necessary, as 
the worshipers in all Moham- 
medan mosques must face 
toward Mecca. In the gallery 
is shown the loge, or section 
reserved for the Byzantine 
Emperors in the Christian 
Church. 

On descending from the 
gallery to the floor, and pro- 
viding ourselves with huge 

leather slippers worn over our shoes, we were lost in admiration of the beautiful central dome, 
which, when seen from the side, appears very high , although it is a flat dome. A number of marble 
pillars are shown supporting the upper story, which are said to have been brought from the 
Temple of Diana, at Ephesus ; other columns of dark red porphyry are said to have been taken 
from the Temple of the Sun, at Baalbek, whence they were brought to Rome by the Emperor 
Aurelian. All of the capitals of the one hundred and seven columns in the church are Byzantine, 
and many of them bear the monograms of Justinian or of his Empress, Theodora. 

The principal additions made by the Mohammedans are an octagonal loge, or tribune, for the 
Sultan, and a similar construction for the teachers and readers of the Koran. Acurios.ity shown 
to visitors is the sweating column, which is said to exude a moisture to which is attributed 
miraculous curative power. The Turks regard the column as a cure for the eye diseases common 
in the Orient, and rub their eyes on this column. A more certain means of propagating the evil 
can hardly be imagined. 

On the wall of the church is shown the imprint of a hand said to have marked the height to 
which the conqueror of Constantinople, Sultan Muhammat II, reached when he rode into the 

Basilica over the corpses of 
thirty thousand Christians 
who had fled into the sanctu- 
ary and had been massacred 
there. In the interest of his- 
torical truth, it should be said 
that the correctness of this 
bloody story is disputed, as it 
is stated that these Christians 
were taken captive and were 
not killed. 

The next object of interest 
visited was the Mosque of 
Ahmed I, surrounded by a 
large court and distinguished 
by six slender minarets, a 
larger number than any other 
mosque, except that at Mecca, 
possesses. In consequence of 





PORPHYRY PILLARS OF ST. SOPHIA 




THE TURKISH FIRE DEPARTMENT 




MOSQUE OF AHMED I, CONSTANTINOPLE 

41 



the objections made by the ecclesiastics of Mecca, a seventh minaret was added to the 
mosque at Mecca by Sultan Ahmed. The exterior of the mosque of Ahmed, built in 
1608, is more pleasing than that of St. Sophia, the arrangement of the exterior domes 
and semi-domes giving an ascending or pyramidal effect to the building, flanked as it is 
by its six beautiful minarets. The space in the interior is only broken by four enormous pillars 
which bear the stone roof. The walls and pillars are covered with magnificent Persian faience 
up to a certain height, above which the tiling seemed to be imiitated in paint. Near the mosque 
is the mausoleum of Sultan Ahmed I and his thirty-six children, whose bodies are contained 
in sarcophagi covered with green cloth. Adjoining the mosque is the Hippodrome built 
by the Emperor Severus as a circus. Nothing is left of the walls, but its site is still marked 
by an obelisk from Egypt, placed here by Theodosius the Great, on a pedestal with reliefs of 

the Emperor and his family 

iP?I^S^'?^<^H5^^^^T^SM^^H and court. A column formed 
•■* "' -■•*"*^ 11^^^3 Qf three bronze serpents is 

also seen here, said to have 
been brought from Delphi 
and to have been part of 
the famous tripod. A sub- 
terranean construction , under 
the name of the Cisterna 
Basilica, is shown near here, 
formerly probably used for 
secret assemblages, now a 
water reservoir. The foun- 
tain of Ahmed III, a beauti- 
ful little kiosk, is situated 
near the Mosque of Ahmed. 
After passing an ancient 
plantain tree, to which an 
incredible age is attributed, 
and which stands in an open 
space where the Janissaries 
were exterminated in 1828, 
we visited the Museum con- 
taining the celebrated sar- 
cophagi from Sidon, now 
Saida, discovered there 
twelve years ago in under- 
ground sepulchral chambers 
by a peasant who was 
engaged in digging. These 
sarcophagi date from the 4th 
Century B. C, and are of 
one and at the same time 
reliefs representing on one 




GALLERY OF BYZANTINE EMPEROR, ST. SOPHIA 



the best period of Greek sculpture. The most elaborate 
the largest, the so-called Alexander Sarcophagus, contains 
side a hunting scene, and on the other a battle scene, probably the battle of the Issos, in 
which Alexander defeated the Persians. Alexander himself appears at one end of this relief 
in his lion's helmet attacking the Persians, while his old General Parmenio, whose face strongly 
resembles that of the late Field Marshal von Moltke, appears at the other end of the relief taking 
the Persians in the flank and rear. According to Dr. Wiegand, who led us through the Museum, 
the prince or king for whom this sarcophagus was made was conquered by Alexander the Great 
and then became the latter's ally. The fact that the figure of Alexander is not the central one 
on either side, but rather that of a Persian general or king, seems to corroborate this view. Of 
the other three sarcophagi one, termed the Sarcophagus of the Mourning Women, shows a graceful 



42 




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INTERIOR OF MOSQUE OF AHMED I 



are distinguished by a noble 
sarcophagus was evidently 
the last resting-place of a 
Satrap, or of a high person- 
age of some distinction. One 
side shows the ruler in a sit- 
ting posture, watching the 
departure of a chariot and 
horses. The figures of the 
charioteer about to step into 
the chariot, and turning back 
his face in greeting to the 
king, and of the men holding 
the horses, are full of life and 
dignified noble action. The 
other side represents a hunt- 
ing-scene, in which a leopard 
is the quarry. One of the 
end-panels shows the ruler 
reclining on a couch and par- 
taking of food and drink pre- 
sented to him by his slaves. 



dignity 



composition of beautiful 
female figures in various atti- 
tudes suggestive of mourning. 
The two end-panels of the next 
one represent the Battle of the 
Centaurs with the Greeks cel- 
ebrating the wedding of The- 
seus. The Centaurs, attract- 
ed by the odor of the wine, 
joined the festal party, but, 
overcome by the fumes of the 
wine, soon became unruly and 
attempted to carry off some 
of the women, which led to 
a general fight, depicted in 
these reliefs. The two side- 
panels of this sarcophagus 
represent hunting scenes, with 
a large number of horses, evi- 
dently the work of an artist 
who was familiar with the 
Parthenon pediments, as the 
horses on this sarcophagus 
strongly resemble in their 
attitudes and general execu- 
tion the horses of the Par- 
thenon, 

The reliefs of the fourth 
monument, termed the Satrap 
Sarcophagus, are perhaps the 
most attractive and human 
in their conception. They 
and simplicity of treatment that appeal to one. The 




FOUNTAIX OF AHMKU 



43 




ALEXANDER SARCOPHAGUS. MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE 




SATRAP SARCOPHAGUS, MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE 
44 




SARCOPHAGUS OF THE MOURXINCJ WOMEN MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE^. 




SATRAP SARCOPHAGUS, MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE 



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while his wife, who, according 
to the custom of those good 
old times, was not allowed to 
dine with her husband, sits 
before him in a dignified pose, 
evidently directing the move- 
ments of the slaves On the 
other end-panel four figures 
in hunting garb are discussing 
and mourning the untimely 
end of the great ruler, who 
must have been the victim of 
some accident in the hunting- 
field. 

Owing to the secure posi- 
tion in which these noble 
examples of pure Hellenic art 
were found, buried deep un- 
derground, they are in almost 
perfect condition, which 
materially adds to the pleasure and interest 
of the beholder. 

There are many other sculptures of interest 
in this fine collection, one of which, a boy 
wrapped in a cloak, evidently resting after 
some athletic game, is particularly note- 
worthy. This figure is comparatively well 
preserved, with the exception of the feet and 
part of the nose. 

During the afternoon a visit was paid to 
the Bazar, a series of streets partly arched 
over with masonry as a protection against 
fire, in which merchandise and goods of every 
description are sold by Turks, Armenians, 
Greeks and Jews. 

A view of Constantinople 
from the Galata tower com- 
pleted the day's work. This 
tower, erected by the Genoese 
in the 14th Century, and now 
used as a signal or watch 
tower by the Fire Depart- 
ment, offers a magnificent 
view or panorama of Con- 
stantinople, the Sea of Mar- 
mara, the Bosporus and the 
Golden Horn with the sur- 
rounding country. 

In the evening the German 
Ambassador with his staff 
took dinner on board and 
was the guest of honor at 
a ball arranged by the 
captain on the upper deck. 



BAZAR CONSTANTINOPLE 



45 



Between the porphyry pillars that uphold 
The rich moresque-work of the roof of gold, 
Aloft the Haram's curtain'd galleries rise, 
Where through the silken network glancing eyes 
From time to time, Uke sudden gleams that glow 
Through autumn clouds, shine o'er the pomp below. 

— Thomas Moore, "Lalla Rookhy 

Constantinople, October 21, 1904. 

A few hours of rest were granted the tired pilgrims this morning, and at 10.30 a. m. every- 
one turned out in frock coat and high hat for the Selamlik. In a long procession the carriages 
conveyed the guests, who had received a special invitation from his Majest}^ the Sultan, to attend 
the ceremonies, to the grounds of the Yildiz Kiosk, where they were passed through a small 
gate, one by one, after careful inspection by the Turkish officials, to a terrace overlooking the road 
leading from the palace to the mosque where the Sultan performs his devotions every Friday. 
One by one, regiment after regiment of infantry and cavalry marched up, with bands playing 
and colors flying, and lined the route from the palace, while countless officers in gorgeous uni- 
forms arrived on foot or in carriages and took up their station around the gate at the entrance 
to the mosque. After a long wait, a number of carts were hurriedly driven up and sand was 
dumped and spread over the surface of the road, which is on a marked declivit}^ from the palace 
to the mosque, to prevent the possibility of slipping, everything being done to avoid any delay 
in the proceedings. Then several court carriages containing princes and princesses drove up, 
and finally, after another long wait, the Sultan himself appeared in an open carriage sitting on the 
back seat, an old general in front of him, the carriage preceded and followed by attendants. 




SELAMLIK CONSTANTINOPLE 



46 




CEREMONY OF SELAMLIK AT MOSQUE D'ORTAKENY 



He passed rapidly down the 
road to the mosque, the 
troops presenting arms and 
shouting "Padisha, tshok 
yasha" ("Many years to the 
Great Lord"), while the bands 
played, and we all removed 
our hats and made our best 
bow. As soon as his carriage 
reached the mosque, the 
Sultan dismounted and dis- 
appeared in the building, 
while everyone outside took 
his ease. We were bidden to 
a little garden behind one of 
the palaces, where the Sultan 
very graciously had some 
refreshments provided for us. 
After half an hour had 
elapsed, we returned to our 
post on the terrace, the bands 
began to play again, the troops formed themselves into line, and the Sultan left the mosque. 
A low carriage, containing one seat, with two horses, had been brought down from the palace, 
in which the Sultan seated himself, and, gathering up the reins, drove the carriage out of the 
yard of the mosque and to the palace, followed by a swarm of some thirty or forty high officers 
running behind the carriage up the steep hill. 

From the Selamlik we drove back to Pera, alighting at the convent of the Dancing Dervishes, 
who had begun their religious exercises and were solemnly and slowly walking around an octag- 
onal enclosure surrounded by a sort of pit which was filled with spectators. After a while, the 
Dervishes, excited by the music produced by various Turkish instruments, accompanied by a 
monotonous chant, began to whirl, occasionally stopping to bow to a venerable old man who 
wore the green turban which distinguishes those who have made the pilgrimage to Mecca. They 
appeared to be in an ecstacy and continued to whirl in a mechanical waj'' that finally became 
somewhat tiresome, and, as 
we had other things to see of 
greater interest, we left the 
Dancing Dervishes to their 
own devices. 

Before returning to the 
steamer, I paid another visit 
to St. Sophia, where, as it 
was the Mohammedan Sun- 
day, I found a large number 
of worshipers at prayer, and 
also circles of men seated on 
the floor of the mosque who 
were being instructed in the 
Koran by readers or teachers 
— evidently a Mohammedan 
Sunda}' School. The beauti- 
ful interior of St. Sophia again 
vividly impressed itself upon 

me, and I certainly agree fcj„ '^ ^ '^ ~ ^^ ^^ ^ J^~ 

with those who believe that fountaix in courtyard of mosque of ejub, coxstantixople 




47 



the interior of this old church 
is the most beautiful and 
artistically satisfying one in 
the world. I endeavored to 
discover what this beautiful 
and satisfying effect is based 
upon, and arrived at the con- 
clusion that it probably is 
the arrangement of semi- 
domes and arches pyramid- 
ally culminating in the great 
central dome. 

Returning across the Gal- 
ata bridge, with its stream of 
all kinds of humanity under 
the sun, I arrived on board 
in time to enjoy the lovely 
sunset light on Seraglio Point 
and on distant Scutari. 




DANCING DERVISHES, CONSTANTINOPLE 



This rose, to calm my brother's cares, 
A message from the bulbul bears; 
He says, to-night he will prolong. 
For Selim's ear, his sweetest song; 
And though his note be somewhat sad, 
He'll try for once a strain more glad; 
In some faint hope his alter'd lay 
Will sing those gloomy thoughts away, 

— Byron, " The Bride of Ahydos" Canto I. 

Constantinople, October 22, 1904. 

At 8 a. m. a large party of the pilgrims embarked in three of the steamer's boats and were 
towed by the pinnace under both the Galata bridges up the Golden Horn, through the com- 
mercial port and the naval port, in which a number of Turkish ironclads were lying, as far as the 
Mosque of Ejub, in which the Sultan is girded with the sword of Osman when he ascends the 
throne, and which no Christian has ever been permitted to enter. 

As time forbade it, we did not land, but turned and were towed back to the steamer to pre- 
pare for a visit to the Imperial Treasury, permission for which had been granted by special 
order of the Sultan. 

We drove through Stamboul to the Seraglio, which occupies the eastern end of what was once 
the ancient city of Byzantium and the site of the Acropolis of that city. The Seraglio was the 
residence of the Sultans until the year 1828, when it was removed to Cheraghan,to Dolma Bagcheh 
on the Bosporus, and finally to the Yildiz Kiosk. After passing through the Gate of the Pro- 
cessions, we entered the inner court of the Seraglio, into which no one can go without an order 
from the Sultan. At the entrance is the Chamber of Execution, where Grand Viziers and Pashas 
who had incurred the displeasure of the Sultan were seized and executed after leaving the imperial 
presence. The court is now grass-grown and shaded by trees. At one end is the building 
containing the Imperial Treasure, where we found an aid-de-camp of the Sultan and the Treasurer 
with a bodyguard of officials and soldiers. They lined up before a great steel door, and, after an 
elaborate ceremonial, proceeded to open the door, admitting us into the four large rooms in which 
the Imperial Treasure, consisting of precious stones, articles of gold and silver and many other 
interesting and valuable objects, are kept. The first and probably most valuable article 
that met our view was the Persian Throne captured by the Turks in a war with the Persians 
in the year 1514. This magnificent piece of furniture is about three feet high above the ground, 



48 



and consists of a round platform 
about five and a lialf feet in 
diameter with a raised rim 
twelve inches in height, the 
whole mounted on substantial 
legs. The throne and the foot- 
stool accompanying it were 
covered with beaten gold, every 
inch of w h i c h was decorated 
with thousands and thousands 
of pearls, emeralds and rubies 
arranged in arabesques. The 
size of these stones is nearly 
one-fourth of an inch in 
diameter, and the value of each 
pearl is considered to be about 
six hundred francs. The total 
value of the throne is estimated 
at two million pounds sterling. 
In another room are kept the 
costumes of former Sultans, with 
the enormous turbans that were 
then worn. All of these cos- 
tumes and turbans contained 
stones of fabulous size and 
value. The oldest costume was 
that of Muhammad II, the con- 
queror of Constantinople. His 
turban showed a large emerald 
of about the size of a small 
hen's egg, and the handle of his 

dagger contained three emeralds of the same size. Suleiman II's turban displayed an enormous 

ruby of the same size as Muhammad's emeralds. The other Sultans' head gear, daggers and 

robes were adorned with precious stones of similar size and value. In one of the cabinets is 

exhibited the largest emerald 

in the world, an uncut stone 

of the approximate size of a 

baseball, and in another 

cabinet is the largest pearl, 

about as large as a pigeon's 

egg and irregular in shape. 

This pearl forms part of the 

body of a mannikin, seated 

with crossed legs, constructed 

entirely of precious stones and 

said to be old Persian work. 

Thousands of old gold coins, 

Roman, Byzantine and Arab, 

are exhibited, as well as a large 

collection of weapons enam- 
eled and encrusted with gems. 
After dul}^ admiring all this 

magnificence, we were invited 

into the Medjidieh Kiosk, goldex horx, const.\ntinople 




OLD SYCAMORE TREE IN SERAGLIO, CONSTANTINOPLE 




49 




THE NAVAL HARBOR, GOLDEN HORN 



commanding a beautiful view of the Bosporus, where we were offered refreshments, consisting of 
coffee, sweetmeats and sweetened water, provided by our imperial host, the Sultan. The library, 
containing about three thousand manuscripts in the Arabic, Persian, Turkish and Greek languages, 
was then shown us, the only noteworthy feature of which was the old bronze door, and we then 
entered the Throne Chamber built by Suleiman I, in which the Sultans, in the days of Ottoman 
supremacy in the East and in a great part of Europe, granted audiences to foreign ambassadors, 
who humbly approached on a veranda outside a grated window, through which they made known 
their wishes without being permitted to see the Great Lord himself. The audience-chamber is 
richly decorated with Persian faience, and contains an enormous divan over which a 
canopy is spread, supported by gilt columns, formerly' richly encrusted with precious stones 
which have been removed, 
and have been replaced by 
imitations. It is related that 
it was not until the beginning 
of the last century that foreign 
ambassadors were permitted 
to come in personal contact 
with the Sultan at these 
audiences. 

Another building shown 
was the Baghdad Kiosk, said 
to have been constructed by 
Murad IV, who re-conquered 
Baghdad in the first half of 
the 17th Century; a little chi- 
teau, entirely Oriental in char- 
.acter, the exterior and inte- 
rior of which are decorated turkish cemetery 




50 



with blue faience. The most attractive feature 
of this charming Kiosk is the beautiful view 
that it offers, from its windows, of the Bos- 
porus, the harbor and of the heights beyond, 
a view that can hardly be excelled. 

A farewell visit to the splendid Sidon Sar- 
cophagi in the Museum followed, and in the 
afternoon we joined a party that was organ- 
ized to drive around the ruined walls of old 
Byzantium, under tlie leadership of a guide. 
We began by driving along the Golden Horn 
on the Stamboul side, tlirough the Jewish and 
Greek quarters to the starting-point of the 
wall on the Golden Horn, and followed it along 
its course, which lies across the promontory, 
to the Sea of Marmara. The wall really con- 
sists of an outside moat, which is about 05 
feet wide, and is now partly filled up ; then fol- 
lows a breastwork with a rampart, then a 
higher outer wall with another rampart, be- 
hind which comes the high inner or city wall 
proper. Towers were erected at very frequent 
intervals along both the inner and outerwalls. 
These fortifications, although much shaken 
by earthquakes, can be distinctly traced 
through their whole course and are still in a 





ALEXANDER SARCOPHAGUS, MUSEUM, CONSTAXTINOPLE 



ALEXANDER SARCOPHAGUS, MUSEUM, CONSTANTINOPLE 

tolerable state of preservation, except where 
the breach was made by the Turks when they 
took the city in 1453, under Muhammad II. 

At the Adrianople gate we made a detour 
into the city to visit the church of the Monas- 
tery of the Chora, which is particularly inter- 
esting on account of the mosaics in the nar- 
thex, formerly whitewashed or painted over, 
but now partly uncovered. The plan of the 
church, the foundations of which date back to 
the 5th Century A. D.,and which was re-built 
in the 7th Century, is said to have served as 
a model for St. Mark's in Venice. Its mosaics 
are much later than the church itself, proba- 
bly of the IStli to the 15th Century. The church 
proper is now a mosque, and its interior has, 
of course, been entirely whitewashed over, to 
conceal the mosaics with which it is covered, 
the figures of which are an abomination to a 
Mohammedan ; but, on the occasion of the visit 
of the German Emperor, the impressions of two 
mosaics, the stones of which had been re- 
moved, representing the Saviour, were cleared 
of whitewash and provided with wooden shut- 
ters, which are closed when religious services 
are held. 



51 



We continue'd our drive 
over a very rough road along 
the walls, which were illumi- 
nated by the rays of the 
setting sun, and finally re- 
entered the city through the 
Golden Gate, passing the 
Seven Towers which were 
built by Muhammad II, and 
of which only four are now 
left. It was used as a kind 
of Bastile, and in it the 
Janissaries during their 
period of power confined the 
Sultans that they had de- 
throned. In former years, 
when the Ottoman Empire 
declared war upon any foreign 
state, the ambassador of that ancient wall of Constantinople 

state was imprisoned here. The French Ambassador was the last one to experience this 
treatment, in 1798. In a small open court of the tower the executions took place, and, as 
the heads were piled up here, the court is called the Place of Heads. A hole is also shown 
into which the heads of the unfortunates who had been executed were thrown. This hole is 
appropriately named "The Well of Blood." Near it are the dungeons in which the condemned 
were kept, and an adjoining place, called "The Rocky Cavern," is still shown, which was 
formerly the torture chamber. On leaving this bloody pile behind, we drove through the city 
past some low-lying ground that was formerly part of the harbor, to the old Galata bridge, 
and the steamer. 





IMTERIOR OF SEVEN TOWERS, CONSTANTINOPLE 

52 



And we glode fast o'er a pellucid plain 
Of waters, azure with the noontide ray. 
Ethereal mountains shone around — a fane 
Stood in the midst, beyond green isles which lay 
On the blue sunny deep, resplendent far away. 

— Shelley. 

At Sea, October 23, 1904. 
Our steamer left the 
quay at Galata this morning 
at 8 o'clock, and, passing 
Seraglio Point, with its 
cypresses and white build- 
ings, behind which St. Sophia 
appeared to bid us good-by, 
we reached the Princes 
Islands at 9 a. m. and 
anchored there, to permit 
those who desired to do so 
to go ashore and visit this 
famous summer resort of the 
Byzantine Emperors, which 
was also the place to which 
objectionable emperors and 
inconvenient princes were 
banished, generally after their 




en 

D 
OS 
O 
a. 
en 
O 

CQ 
UJ 

X 
H 

Li. 

o 

> 



eyes had been put out. Carriages took the party around the principal ishmd of Prinkipo 
and, after re-embarkation, the steamer set sail through the Sea of Marmara and the Dardanelles 
for Pirasus. 




ANCII'.Xr liVZAXTIM W \LI 



NM'AxrixiiPLi-; 



slow sinks, more lovely ere his race Ijc run, 

Along Morca's lulls the setting sun; 

Not as in northern climes, obscurely bright. 

But one unclouded blaze of living light! 

O'er the hush'd deep the yellow beam he throws 

Gilds the green wave that trembles as it glows. 

On old .'Egina's rock and Idra's isle, 

The god of gladness sheds his parting smile; 

O'er his own regions lingering, loves to shine, 

Though there his altars are no more divine. 

Descending fast the mountain shadows kiss 

Thy glorious gulf, unconquer'd .Salamis! 

Their azure arches through the long expanse 

More deeply purpled meet his mellowing glance, 

And tenderest tints, along their summits driven, 

Mark his gay course, and own the hues of heaven; 

Till darkly shaded from the land and deep, 

Behind his Delphian cliff he sinks to sleep. 

— Byron, ''The Corsair,'''' Canto Iff. 

Athens, Piraeus, October 24, 1904. 
Under a sunny sky and over glassy seas the steamer plowed her way through the islands 
of the ^-Egean, and, passing the bold promontorj^ of Cape Sunium, on the summit of which the 
white Doric columns and entablature of a Temple of Athene stand out in bold relief, stopped off 
Pirseus, and, having complied with quarantine regulations, steamed around the point to Phaleron, 
where she anchored and disembarked the pilgrims for a farewell visit to the Acropolis. We 
arrived before the entrance of the Acropolis as the rays of the setting sun were gilding the white 
pillars of the Propylasa, and stood in silent wonder before the small temple of Athene Nike, to 
the right of the Propylaga, whence the west front of the Parthenon is best seen, but the sun unfor- 
tunately soon disappeared behind gathering clouds and we lost the full sunset effect. However, 
the majestic influence of the Parthenon and the Erechtheion held us all in admiration and awe 
until the gathering darkness and the impatient hints of the keepers forced us to retreat, when we 
took carriage to the hotel. 

After dinner the full moon appeared, although rather feebly shining through the misty 
atmosphere; but, in the hope that the clouds would soon be dissipated, we again wended our way 
to the Acropolis, and we were not disappointed. The effect of the moon's rays on the white 
pillars of the Propylaea and on the east front of the Parthenon cannot be adequately described. 
It softened all lines and imperfections and brought out marvelously the beautiful proportions 
of these immortal ruins and the pink tints of the Parthenon front. A solemn and 

hushed feeling came over the 
crowds that had been attract- 
ed to the Acropolis by the 
moonlight, and no one dared 
to speak above a whisper. 
It was as if the ghost of the 
mighty past of this venerable 
pile had arisen and revivified 
the scarred ruins. Reluc- 
tantlv we departed, in order 
to return to the steamer, 
which at midnight left her 
anchorage ofT Phaleron and 

VIEW OF P.ARTHENOX IRoM THK TEMPLE OF .\THEXE NIKE Sailed for NaUplia. 




53 





' yj> M 













\IL\\ or lAbT TRONf OI P\R1IIEN0\ 



Erst regierte Saturnus schlicht und 

gerecht, 
Da war es heute wie morgen, 
Da lebten die Hirten, ein harmlos 

Geschlecht, 
Und brauchten fiir gar nichts zu sorgen. 
Sie liebten und thaten weiter nichts 

mehr 
Die Erde gab AUes freiwillig her. 

Drauf kam die Arbeit, der Kampf 

begann 
Mit Ungeheuern und Drachen, 
Und die Heldenfingen, die Herrscher, an, 
Und den Machtigen suchten die 

Schwachen. 
Und der Strait zog in des Skamanders Feld, 
Doch die Schonheit war imnier der Gott der Welt. 

— Schiller, "Die vier IVeltaller." 

Nauplia, October 25, 1904. 
On anchoring in the beautiful bay of NaupHa, we had before us the pretty city of the same 

name, lying at the foot of a steep hill and surrounded by high mountains which sweep in a vast 

semi-circle around the head of the bay, 
retreating towards the north, where a level 
foreshore stretches up to the distant hills. 
To the east and immediately above the city 
towers a crag seven hundred feet in height, 
on which the walls of a fortress frown down 
upon the Acropolis of Nauplia far below. 
This fortress, built by the Venetians, is now 
used as a prison. 

Favored with fine weather, we disem- 
barked in four boats, as usual, and proceeded 
to the railroad station, where a special train 
was in waiting that conveyed us to Mykenas- 
Fichtia, in about an hour. Carriages were 
taken here, and, after half an hour's ride over 
a good carriage road, we came upon the site 

of the pre-historic Acropolis of Mykense, the ancient seat of Atreus and of Agamemnon. 

The massive walls, formed of enormous blocks of stone, are still intact in many places, and a 

passage-way flanked by walls built of great stones leads up to the celebrated Lions' Gate. This 

doorway is constructed of two stones ten and 

one-half feet high supporting a lintel which 

consists of one huge block sixteen and one- 
half feet long, eight feet broad and more than 

three feet thick. How the ancients, who did 

not even know the use of blocks, managed 

to handle such enormous weights, is still an 

unsolved marvel. The side-posts, lintel and 

sill are provided with holes, which were used 

to insert beams for the purpose of barricad- 
ing the gates when closed. Over the lintel 

a triangular opening was left in the wall for 

the purpose of reducing the weight on the 

lintel, and in this triangular opening a slab is 

inserted ten feet high and twelve feet broad 

at the base, on which is sculptured the well- country near myken^ 




VIEW FROM IX 




54 




APPROACH TO LIOXS' GATE, MYKEN.E 



known relief which has given this gate its name, namely, two lions erect on their hind legs, 

their front feet resting on an altar, above which a column rises crowned with a capital. The 

heads of the lions, which were made of separate pieces, as was frequently the case in ancient 

sculptures, are now lacking. The lions were undoubtedly watching the approach to the gate 

and guarding their master's house and altar. 

After entering through the gate, we saw lo the right a double circle of u]M-ight slabs of a 

diameter of eighty feet in a depressed level space. In this enclosure Dr. Schliemann made his 

remarkable discoveries of the royal tombs 
containing the vast collection of gold orna- 
ments and utensils of various kinds which is 
now deposited in the National Museum at 
Athens. The space enclosed in this circle 
was evidently the meeting-place, and in it 
the royal personages, probably among them 
Agamemnon, were buried. The summit of 
the Acropolis, which we now ascended, was 
the site of the royal palace itself, but very 
little of its foundations is left, as a landslip 
has carried away the retaining walls built on 
the precipitous side of the rocky eminence, 
and in the course of the ages the materials of 

which the palace was constructed have been washed away or have fallen into the deep ravine 

below. Various illustrations of the peculiar system of arch construction of the pre-historic race 

that inhabited these parts — one stone placed horizontally 

upon the other, but each added stone projecting further than 

the lower one until the arch was completed — were seen in 

the course of our wanderings over the site of this ancient 

fortress. Near the gate we found a perfectly preserved, large, 

cemented cistern in which there was a supply of fresh water 

brought down from a spring outside the walls through an 

ancient underground aqueduct. 

On leaving the Acropolis we passed a vaulted sepulchre, 

which was partly excavated by Mrs. Schliemann and entirely 

unearthed by the Greek Archaeological Society, known as the 

Treasure House of Klvtaemnestra. This sepulchre consists 

of a passage-way lined with masonry construction of huge 

blocks leading into a high-domed circular chamber, the 

arched dome built in the same style as the arches on the Acropolis. The upper part of the dome 

has fallen in, and the Treasure House is somewhat dilapidated. Of greater interest is the so- 
called Treasure House of Atreus, another 
sepulchre of similar construction, which is 
situated a little farther on at the side of the 
road. This Treasure House is also called the 
Tomb of Agamemnon, but it is now generally 
held that Agamemnon's tomb was in the 
royal circle in the Acropolis, and the 
archaeologists assign a later date to these 
outside sepulchres. The vaulted dome of 
the Treasure House of Atreus is intact and 
presents an imposing appearance. Its walls 
were originally decorated with metal shields, 
or bosses, as is evident from the large number 
of small holes appearing at regular intervals 
INTERIOR OF ACROPOLIS, MYKEx.E ^^ the stones of the dome, in some of which 




LIONS' G.\TE, MyKEN.E 




55 




SUMMIT OF ACROPOLIS, MYK 




iV^'M 




holes bronze nails have been found. The apex 

of the dome is some sixty feet in height, and 

its diameter on the floor about fifty feet. On 

one side is a doorway leading into a dark side- 
chamber, which was the tomb proper. After 

completing our inspection of these tombs, the 

carriages conveyed us to the village of Fichtia, 

where a sumptuous lunch al fresco had been 

prepared by the industrious stewards, under 

the direction of their chief, in the usual ship- 
shape manner. We then betook ourselves to 

the station near by, where our special train was waiting, and were carried to Tirj'ns, near Nauplia. 
Here Dr. Schrader, who had explained the Mykenean excavations to us, again undertook 

the leadership, and we climbed up the cyclopean mass of masonry that composed this pre-his- 

toric old palace, and, beginning at the ancient 
entrance-gate, were conducted through the por- 
tion of the citadel excavated by Dr. Schliemann. 
We were shown the sills and sides of the great 
gates and doors, the entrance-hall and the large 
hall of the megaron, or men's apartment, in the 
centre of which were the bases of four pillars 
which bore the roof, while in the square be- 
tween them was the open fire-place, the smoke 
escaping through the roof, the centre of which 
was undoubtedly raised on the four columns 
above the part of the roof covering the sides of 
the hall. The bathroom adjoining the men's 
apartment contains one immense slab of black 
limestone laid on an incline toward one corner, 
in which an outlet is cut to allow the water to 
run off. On the other side of the men's apart- 
or the harem, resembling the megaron, but smaller. 

Around the castle and built into the massive outside wall is a series of store rooms with vaulted 

roofs and reached by similarly constructed passage-ways from the interior of the palace. 
The entire construction of 

Tiryns as well as Myken^ 

showed the facility with 

which these old builders 

handled the great blocks of 

stone that they employed in 

their constructions in pref- 
erence to smaller units. 

Another fact brought to our 

attention in these pre-historic 

ruins, and also in those of 

Knosos, was the employment 

of wood as the material for 

their columns, instead of 

stone, as was evidenced by 

the surface of the bases of the 

columns and the traces of fire 

which are discoverable on 

these bases, showing that the 

palaces and their columns 

were destroyed by fire. 




SO-CALLED TOMB OF AGAMEMNON 

ment are the women's apartments. 




ANCIENT ARCH CONSTRUCTION, MYKEN^ 



56 





CYCLOPEAN WALL, TIRVNS 



WALLS OF TIRYXS 




VIEW FROM ACROPOLIS OF TIRYNS 




BASTIONS OF MALIA 



57 



The excavation of Mykenae and Tiryns uncovered the first traces of an old pre-historic 
civiHzation far antedating the remains of Greek culture that had previously been known. The 
period of this civilization, which has been quite reliably placed between 1500 and 1300 B. C, 
by the discovery of Egyptian objects in the excavations bearing the exact date, has been uni- 
versally termed the Mykenean period. Within the last few years the excavations at Knosos, in 
Crete, which go back five hundred years farther, have shown that the Mykenean period in Greece 
was preceded by still an earlier civilization in Crete, and the archaeologists are now endeavoring 
to ascertain, by excavating the layers that 
underlie the constructions of Tiryns, Mykense 
and other pre-historic sites, what bearing 
this earlier Cretan civilization had upon 
conditions in Greece. In examining these 
layers, each bit of broken pottery is classified 
and referred to its proper epoch by scientific 
investigators, and each year establishes an 
advance in the discoveries made by archaeo- 
logical research in the realm of the history of 
human civilization. 

From Tiryns we returned to the steamer, 
anchored off Nauplia, and, bidding good-by 
to Dr. Schrader, we steamed south toward 
Malta. 




COSTUME OF MALTESE WOMAN 



Far within the ocean lies 
An island named Ogygia, where abides 
Calypso, artful goddess, with bright locks. 
Daughter of Atlas, and of dreaded power. 
No God consorts with her, nor any one 
Of mortal birth. But me in my distress 
Some god conveyed alone to her abode. 
When, launching his white Ughtning, Jupiter 
Had cloven in the midst of the black sea 
My galley. 
— Homer, Odyssey, Book VII — Bryant's Translation. 

Malta, October 27, 1904. 
After a sail of about thirty-six hours, we 
entered the fine, rock-bound harbor of Malta 
.at 7 a. m. to-day, and were agreeably surprised to note the attractive appearance of the city of 
Valetta, and the animated picture of the amphitheatrical harbor, in which commercial vessels 
and men-of-war were anchored, the light color of the buildings and high fortress walls con- 
trasting pleasantly with the 
blue water. On landing, we 
entered the small Maltese 
carriages that were in wait- 
ing and drove to the Cathe- 
dral of San Giovanni .which is 
richly decorated with monu- 
ments erected to the memory 
of Grand Masters and Knights 
of the Order of St. John, or 
of Malta, who received the 
island from the Emperor 
Charles V, in 1530, when the 
Turks drove them from the 
island of Rhodos, and held it 

liOAT.S I.\ HARB(JR OF MALTA 




58 



until Napoleon took it from 
them in 179S. Besides one 
genuine, and another alleged, 
Caravaggio, the church con- 
tains little of any artistic 
merit or interest. 

After enjoying the superb 
views of the Great Harbor 
from the Barracca Superiore 
and of the smaller harbor on 
the other side of the promon- 
tory, from one of the bastions, 
and passing through the Pal- 
ace of the Governor, which 
contains nothing remarkable, 
the company separated to 
explore various parts of the 
city and to purchase the 
articles for which Malta is 
famous. 

In the afternoon man)' of 
the pilgrims paid a visit to a 
cathedral-like church in the 
suburbs, which proved disap- 
pointing, and then passed on 
to the country residence of 
the Governor at Sant' An- 
tonio, the well-kept garden 
of which excited their admira- 
tion and delight by reason of 
the beautiful collection of 
flowers and plants of the 
most varied description that 
it contained. In driving to this country palace and returning, we had occasion to observe the 
great extent to which the Maltese have converted the surface of their rocky island into fertile 
soil, on which they grow figs, oranges, lemons and all kinds of vegetables. 

We regretfully bade good-by to Malta, which rightfully came within the sphere of our 
interest, as not only does the fable designate it as the island Ogygia, the seat of the nymph 
Calypso, who ensnared the wandering Odysseus, but it still shows traces of the earliest civiliza- 
tion known to have existed in the Mediterranean and co-eval with the culture periods of Crete 
and of Mykenas. 




STREET IN" MALT.^ 



Ortygia, thou all-hallowed breathing place 
Where Alpheus lifts his weary head; 
Siracusa's bloomy grace 
Deles' sister; Dian's bed. 

— Pindar, Nem. I— Carey's Translation. 

Siracusa, October 31, 1904. 

On arrival at Catania in the morning of October 28, Gus and I bade good-by to our 
fellow-voyagers and left the steamer on which we had made our honie for nearly four weeks, 
intending to spend a number of days in Sicily, while our fellow-passengers, after a few days in 
Taormina and Palermo, were to continue their trip on the steamer via Naples to Genoa. 



59 




THE \TLLA POLITI COVERED WITH FLOWERS 



We visited the catliedral and the garden 

of the Villa Bellini, in Catania, and then took 

the train for Siracusa, where we arrived in 

time to enjoy the sunset view from the old 

Greek theatre. We found a welcome in the 

Hotel Villa Politi, situated outside of the 

present city of Siracusa, and built on the 

brink of one of the interesting ancient 

quarries known as " Latomie," from which 

the Siracusans obtained the limestone used 

in the construction of their city centuries 

before our era. 

The bottom of the Latomia dei Cappu- 

cini, seventy-five feet deep, on which the hotel 

is situated, is now filled with orange and 

lemon trees and flowers, the edges are covered with profuse and luxuriant vegetation, and the 

white sides of the Latomia are dotted here and there with bunches of green bushes, grass and 

vines. In the clear evening light the scene is a singularly beautiful and peaceful one, and it is 

with difficulty that one can recall the awful tragedy enacted two thousand four hundred years 

ago in this very Latomia, into which seven thousand Athenians were cast by the victorious 

Siracusans, to die a slow and lingering death. 

The approach to the hotel is through a garden filled with vines and flowers, and the stone 

veranda in front of the hotel, 
some twelve feet high and 
fifty feet long, is covered 
with blue, red and pink 
flowers and green vines in 
profusion, presenting a most 
attractive picture to the 
traveler from regions where 
vegetation is rare and far 
between. 

The only part of Siracusa 
now still standing is situated 
on the island of Ortygia. 
There are but few relics of 
the days of Siracusa' s glory 
to be seen there. The ruins 
of a Temple of Diana, now 
believed to have been a 
Temple of Apollo, have been 
partly excavated, the archi- 
tecture of which marks it 
as of very early construction, 
probably of the 6th Century 
B. C. The Doric columns of 
an old Temple of Athene, 
probably of slightly later 
date, have been built into 
the cathedral, or, rather, the 
walls of the cathedral have 
been built between the old 
columns, of which twenty- 
two are visible. 

THE LATOMIA DEI CAPPUCINI 




60 









*..'?■ 



The Fountain of Arethusa, 
on the shore of the harbor, 
near the cathedral, according 
to tradition, marks the spot 
where the nymph Arethusa, 
pursued by the river-god 
Alplicus, was turned into a 
fountain by the jroddess 
Diana. 

The Museum contains an in- 
teresting collection of prehis- 
toric Sicilian remains, chiefly 
found in old sepulchres, also 
a valuable and noteworthy 
collection of Greek Sicilian 
coins of the 5th and later 
centuries B. C. One of the 
rooms contains a well-pre- 
served statue of Venus Ana- 

dyomene, the head and right arm only of which are lacking, of the best period of late Greek art. 

A colossal head of Poseidon, a number of sarcophagi, Christian, Greek and pre-historic, terra 

cotta figures and tomb-reliefs are also part of this small but admirably arranged Museum. 

The old Greek theatre, hewn into the natural rock and erected in the 5th Century B.C., 

was particularly attractive in the glow of the sunset, when, standing on the upper range of seats, 

the panorama of Siracusa with its harbor lay spread out before us, the beautiful, clear evening 

light and the pure air rendering every distant object singularly distinct. 

The Latomia del Paradiso, with its Ear of Dionysius, a grotto specially constructed by the 

tyrant, according to tradition, to enable him to detect any word spoken by his prisoners 



.Cr^SKS^. 



THK LATOMIA DEL I'ARAD1S(_). SIRACUSA 





STATUE OF VEXUS AN.\nyOMEXE, 
L\ MUSEUM .\T SIRACUSA 



THE "E.\R OF DIONYSIUS' 



61 




GREEK THEATRE, SIRACUSA 




THE OLD ROMAN AMPHITHEATRE, SIRACUSA 



62 



confined in the Latomia below; the Roman Amphitheatre, constructed under Augustus; and the 
great altar of Hiero II, more than six hundred feet in length and seventy-five feet in width, on 
which four hundred and fifty oxen were sacrificed annually to commemorate the expulsion of 
the tyrant Thrasybulos, all situated near the theatre, were points of interest visited by us. 

We undertook a long walk in beautiful weather to Fort Euryelos, northwest of Siracusa, 
and formerly part of the city and its Acropolis. It was erected at the end of the 5th and 

beginning of the 4th Century B. C, by the 
tyrant Dionysius. Little is now left of the 
fortress except five towers built over deep 
moats hewn in the rock, and remains of the 
walls that surrounded the fortress and thence 
extended around the city. From the ruined 
walls of the fortress we had an excellent view 
of Mount Etna, fifty miles away, such was 
the clearness of the atmosphere. An ancient 
aqueduct, that formerly supplied the fort 
and continued from the fort to the city, 
is in an excellent state of preservation, and water still runs through it. 

The fine weather that has favored us so far and has made our stay here so pleasant has 
changed to rain, but we shall leave with regret the flowers, oleanders and lemon trees that scent 
the air of Siracusa. 




\ I£\V FROM I'ORT EURYKLOS 



Say, hast thou tracked a traveller's round, 
Nor visions met thee there 

Thou couldst but marvel to have found 
This blighted world so fair ? 

And feel an awe within thee rise, 
That sinful man should see 

Glories far worthier seraph's eyes 
Than to be shared by thee ? 

—John Henry Newman. 

Taormina, November 2, 1904. 
We arrived here October 31, in a doleful rainstorm, and have been pursued by indifferent 
and showery weather ever since. Etna has not favored us with a glimpse of her snow-capped 
summit, and w-e have only had fleeting views of the snow-fields near the top of the great mountain, 

the "prop of heaven," as 
Pindar called it, through rifts 
in the clouds gathered around 
and over it. We have taken 
advantage of some hours of 
freedom from rain to visit 
the well-known Greek theatre 
immediately behind and 
above our hotel, the Timeo. 
This theatre, in its present 
form, is more Roman in con- 
struction than Greek, as it 
was extensively restored in 
the Roman period. The loca- 
tion of the theatre is its 
striking feature, for it over- 
looks the bold coast-line 
VIEW TO THE NORTH FROM GREEK THEATRE both north and south from 




63 



its commanding position, seven hundred feet above the sea, and presents a superb view to the 
south of Etna, the valley of Alcantara and the intervening mountains, Taormina on the right, 
and the white coast-line and the blue sea on the left. Turning to the north, the old Greeks and 
Romans could, in the intermissions of their 
plays, from the upper galleries, enjoy an 
unobstructed view of the coast toward 
Messina, the sea and the range of Calabrian 
Mountains on the distant Italian continent. 
During another temporary cessation of 
rain, we climbed to the top of Mola, a rather 
dirty village which crowns the summit of a 
steep mountain overhanging Taormina. Its 
height is about two thousand feet, and it 
commands a magnificent view up and down 
the coast, of Etna and its satellites, as well 
as of the Calabrian Mountains beyond the 
Straits of Messina. 

A SICILIAN CART 




Sicily, in the centre of the Mediterranean, has been throughout all history the meeting- 
place and battle-ground of the races that contributed to civilize the West. 

It was here that the Greeks measured their strength against Phoenicia, and that Car- 
thage fought her iirst duel rath Rome. Here the bravery of the Hellenes triumphed over 
barbarian force in the victories of Gelon and Timoleon. 

—J. A. Symonds, "Sketches in Ilaly and Greece.'' 

Palermo, November 7, 1904. 
Leaving Taormina November 3, we came along the east coast through Messina, a town of 
very little interest, and then skirting the picturesque north coast of the island, we passed the 

ancient town of Myls, now Milazzo, a Greek 
colony founded in 716 B. C, and Cefalfi, 
celebrated for its Norman cathedral, which 
contains well-preserved mosaics, said to be 
the oldest in Sicily. To the north the islands 
of Lipari appeared, chief among which is the 
smoking cone of Stromboli, once the seat of 
^f^-olus, the god of the winds. 

Showers of rain swept across the land and 
sea from time to time, but, as we approached 
Palermo, in the afternoon, the sun came out 
of the clouds and favored us with a magnifi- 
cent view of the beautiful bay of Palermo, 
encircled on three sides by mountains. 

We found a huge package of letters and 
papers awaiting us here that kept us busy 
the rest of the, day. The next morning we 
sallied forth for a visit to the National 
Museum, chiefly for the purpose of examining 
the celebrated metopes from the temples of 
Selinus, on the southwestern coast of Sicily, 
a Greek colony founded in 628 B.C., and 
destroyed in 409 B. C. 

The metopes are particularly interesting, as 

they extend from the earliest period of archaic 

RELIEF OF PERSEUS BEHEADING THE MEDUSA. art to the period Immediately preceding the 

ARCHAIC METOPE FROM SELINUS 




64 



culiuiiuiUoii ol Ciivok art. Tlio earliest lluve metopes, of the (ith Century, consist of a (luad- 
riga, Perseus belieading the Medusa, and Hercules in his contest with the Cyclopes, 
respectively. TJie figures of these three metopes show \-cry primitive conception and execu- 
tion, and are almost grotesque in their exaggeration. Then follow fragments of two later 
metopes showing an advance in artistic spirit, while tlic four last metopes, of the 5th 

Century, consisting of representations of 
Hercules slaying Hippolyta the Amazon, 
Zeus and Hera on Mount Ida in Crete, Diana 
and Actaeon, and Athene slaying Enceladus 
exhibit a marked improvement both in dis- 
position of the figures and in the execution 
of the details of sculpture. There are many 
other interesting ancient sculptures and 
remains of Sicilian civilization contained in 
this Museum, the collections of which are 
well arranged in an old monastery with 
picturesque courts and cloisters. 

In the afternoon we visited the Cathedral 
and ancient Benedictine Monastery of 
Monreale, from the heights of which there 
is a superb view of the famous Conca d'Oro, the green and fertile valle)^ filled with orange 
and lemon trees, which sweeps down between high mountains to the sea, spreading out 
its verdure around Palermo. The Cathedral, completed by William II in 1189, still 
contains a wealth of mosaics which cover its walls. Its roof was burnt in the last cen- 
tury and has been rebuilt; a large number of mosaics which were injured or destroyed in the 




PIsr.WT VIEW (IF TKMPLE OF SEGEST.X 



^-■»«***i^: 









65 





RELIEF OF QUADRIGA. METOPE FROM SELINUS 



RELIEF OF HERCULES SLAYING HIPPOLYTA. 
METOPE FROM SELINUS 





RELIEF OF ZEUS AND HERA. METOPE FROM SELINUS RELIEF OF DIANA AND ACT;EON. METOPE FROM SELINUS 

66 



L.ofC. 




< 

a. 

<■ 

f- 
co 

UJ 

O 



O 

ul 
_) 

Q- 
UJ 

I- 



cnnflaRrntion have also been renewed. Of the monastery which joins the Cathedral the only 
noteworthy remains are the cloisters, which contain two hundred and sixteen columns, formerly 
adorned with rich mosaics, which were picked out and stolen when the monastery was used as 
a barracks. The capitals of these columns are sculptured with scriptural representations, each 
capital varying from the other. 

On the 5th we undertook an excursion to the ruins of Segesta, the site of one of the oldest 
towns in Sicily, built and inhabited by the original Sicilians until destroyed. The town never 
became Greek, although Greek art and Greek civilization exerted a commanding influence over 
its people. After almost constant warfare with the Greek colonies in Sicily, the city was destroyed 
at an early date, and nothing is now left of the populous town, which, with its dependencies, is 
said to have contained one hundred and eighty thousand inhabitants, except a fine Doric temple, 
a Greek theatre and a few substructures and foundations of walls scattered here and there. 




CLOISTERS. MONASTERY OF MONREALE 

The train, starting at a very early hour in the morning from Palermo, took us to Castel- 
lammare Golfo, where we arrived at 8 a. m. and found a carriage ready for us. The road from 
Castellammare to Segesta, although shadeless, is picturesque, as it presents a fine panorama of 
the mountainous country. The route follows a well-cultivated valley dotted with farms and 
olive orchards, and, from a distance, long before reaching Segesta, after a drive of about two 
hours, the lonely temple appears high on the mountain side. 

When opposite the site of old Segesta, on the other side of the valley, we dismounted from 
our carriage and were conducted across a fiumara, or water-course, which was easily forded, but 
which, when running full, must present a rather formidable obstacle to travelers. A very poor 
and rough path up the side of the valley led in half an hour's time to the Custodian's house, the 
surroundings of which are anything but pleasant. Leaving our luncheon basket here under the 
guard of its bearer, we mounted in twenty minutes to the temple, which is situated on a hill to 
the west of the site of the old town. The position of this old temple, which reminds one of 



67 



the Temple of Neptune ' at 

Paestum, is impressive, placed 

in its solitary grandeur on 

a hill which slopes gently to 

the east, but to the west 

falls off precipitously several 

hundred feet into a chasm, or 

gorge, while above it tower 

the grey mountains. 

The temple, built in the 

5th Century B. C, is slightly 

larger than the Temple of 

Neptune at Paestum, but, 

unlike the latter, it never 

was completed, as its columns 

are unfiuted and the projec- 
tions on the stones for pur- 
poses of transportation and 

erection were left unremoved. 

The columns and the entabla- 
ture are in situ, but have 

suffered from the ravages of 

the elements. Opposite the 

temple hill rises the mountain 

on which the ancient city 

stood, its summit crowned by 

the old Greek theatre, the 

seats of which, disposed in 

the usual semi-circular form, 

are remarkably well pre- 
served, in contrast with the 

thorough destruction that 

has visited the cit}' itself. We climbed the mountain, followed by shepherds and country 

lads in picturesque dress, who displayed Greek, Arabian and Roman coins that they had 

unearthed on the site of Segesta. 

The sweeping panorama from the elevated point occupied by the Greek theatre is most 

interesting and strikingly beautiful. To the north the blue gulf of Castellammare appears at 

the end of the vallej', through which we had come, and on all sides rise mountains between three 

thousand and four thousand feet in height, the flanks of which show cultivated fields and olive 

groves. To the west, many miles distant, appear the walls and towers of loft}' Monte San Giuli- 

ano, perched upon its rocky crest. This is 
the old town of Eryx, sacred to the goddess 
Venus, and still containing the remains of a 
temple to that divinity, as well as founda- 
tions of prehistoric Phoenician walls. To 
the south the monument on the battle-field 
of Catalafimi marks the spot where Garibaldi 
defeated the Bourbons in 1860, and here 
and there on the hills are ancient castles 
and towers, all replete with historical asso- 
ciations. 

The location of the theatre and the temple 

at Segesta again illustrates the careful design 

PF.ASWTS OF SF.GEST\ showu b}' the ancient Greeks, and those 




INTERIOR OF CATHEDR.'\L. MOXRE.\LE 




68 




CATHICDRAL OF F.^L_lOIJ 

influenced bv them, in the selection of the sites for their temples and their tlieatres 
The temples were usually placed in positions where their majestic and awe-inspiring 
surroundings elevated the religious feelings of the worshipers, and the theatres were built 
where the comprehensive panorama of natural scenery before, and the clear and 
unobstructed sky above, the audience raised the mind to the level of the immortal plays 
presented there and concentrated the attention upon them. 

We returned to Castellammare Golfo by carriage and arrived in Palermo in the evening, 

delighted with our excursion, 
which was favored by the 
most perfect weather. I 
should add that fine weather 
is absolutely essential for a 
visit to Segesta. 

Yesterday our programme 
included the Cathedral, origi- 
nally built in 1169, but since 
that date frequently and not 
advantageously altered and 
restored. The interior is not 
remarkable, and its only note- 
worthy feature are the tombs 
of the Norman kings, who re- 
pose here in sarcophagi of red 
porphyry under baldachins 
supported b}' columns, which 
are richly decorated with 

S.\N GIOVANNI DEGLI EREWITI mOSaicS. 




69 



The Palazzo Reale, part of which only shows its Norman origin, contains a few rooms 
dating from the time of King Roger, and decorated with fine mosaics. The Cappella Palatina, 
built in 1122 b}^ Roger II, is part of the palace. The interior of this chapel contains the richest 

and most lavish ornamenta- 
tion in mosaics that any 
ecclesiastical building in the 
world has to show. The 
view of the interior of the 
chapel from the pulpit is 
magical, even in the poor 
light penetrating through the 
small windows, and one won- 
ders what the glorious effect 
must be if the chapel were 
illuminated at night, with 
artificial light throughout. 

Near the Palace is situated 
the Church of San Giovanni 
degli Eremiti, a Norman edi- 
fice built in 1132 in a Sara- 
cen mosque, part of which 
was utilized in the construc- 
tion of the church. Adjoining 
the church are cloisters, now 
in ruins and covered with 
plants and flowers in profu- 
sion. 

Sicily, with its venerable 
remains of Greek art and cul- 
ture, is the last stage in our 
archseological pilgrimage. We 
sail this evening for Naples 
and leave the beautiful world 
of the past to return to the 
practical duties of^our every- 

C.\PPELLA P.\L.\TIN.\, P.\LERMO "-^^^ llVeS. 




Farewell! a word that must be, and hath been — 

A sound which makes us linger; — yet — farewell! 

Ye! who have traced the Pilgrim to the scene 

Which is his last, if in your memories dwell 

A thought which once was his, if on ye swell 

A single recollection, not in vain 

He wore his sandal-shoon, and scallop-shell; 

Farewell! with him alone may rest the pain. 

If such there were — with you, the moral of his strain! 

— Byron, "Childe Harold's Pilgrimage" Canto IV. 



70 




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